Renaissance - Josette King

Italy — A walk through Genoa’s storied past…

28 December 2025 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

Founded around 1000 BC by the Ligurians, Genoa was an important trading hub during the Roman empire. After the empire fell, the city was conquered by the usual cast of successive invaders (Byzantines, Lombards, Franks et al.).

Genoa remains the largest commercial port in Italy.

Fast forward to the 10th century AD, when Genoa started to develop into a maritime republic, on par with other powerful city-states like Venice and Pisa. Over the next centuries, its deep, sheltered bay on the Ligurian Sea became a center of maritime trade and naval power. With colonies and trading posts from the Black Sea to the Atlantic, and proximity to the alpine passes that connected the Mediterranean with northern Europe, Genoa prospered as one of Europe’s leading commercial and financial hubs.

The Carrugi

The carrugi are a maze of tall, narrow buildings.

While steep coastal hills and surrounding mountains provided natural protection against invasions, this favorable topography was not deemed sufficient to ensure the safety of the city. Medieval Genoa became known for the extensive fortifications that made it a quasi-impregnable fortress. Faced with limited space within its walls to accommodate its rapid growth, the city developed vertically, into a labyrinth of narrow winding alleys known as carrugi,

The carrugi connected warehouses, workshops, and markets directly to the harbor, making them vital for commerce, while offering protection to its residents. They remain to this day a vibrant hub of local life, with traditional eateries, artisan shops, and cultural landmarks reflecting the city’s rich history and multicultural heritage.

The Palazzi di Rolli

Facade frescoes were a sign of wealth and status.

Occasionally, the carrugi widen a bit, or intersect to form a piazzetta (tiny square), and you come face-to-face with the elegantly frescoed facade of a Renaissance or Baroque palace. Deprived by the limited space of the possibility for expansive gardens or open squares, Genoa’s merchant aristocrats turned to elaborate exterior paintings to showcase their status.

The interiors of palazzi were extravagantly decorated.

These palaces also compensated for their discreet facades with richly decorated interiors. Many them belonged to the Palazzi dei Rolli, a group of palaces that were part of an official registry (Rolli) of noble residences selected to host state visitors, such as princes and ambassadors, during the 16th and 17th centuries heydays of the Republic of Genoa. Today they remain a veritable “who is who” chronicle of this illustrious past, and several of them have become noted museums.

Palazzo Reale

The Gallery of Mirrors.

Now known as the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), this 17th century masterpiece of Baroque architecture was built by the Balbi family, and became the royal residence in Genoa of the House of Savoy in the 19th century. It is remarkable for its lavishly frescoed halls, grand staircases, and its famous Gallery of Mirrors. Today, it is now a national museum focused on historic interiors, furnishings and art collections illustrating Genoese and Savoy aristocratic life.

Palazzo Spinola

Palazzo Spinola interior.

Built in the late 16th century for the Spinola family, it is now the Palazzo Spinola National Gallery. Within its richly decorated interiors with frescoed ceilings by prominent Ligurian artists, it displays paintings, sculptures, furniture, ceramics and tapestries that reflect the life of the Genoese nobility. Highlights include works by Rubens, Van Dyck, and Antonello da Messina, along with period rooms illustrating how aristocratic families lived.

Along Via Garibaldi

Palazzo Tursi- entrance foyer ceiling fresco.

Originally called Strata Nuova (New Street), Via Garibaldi is part of the city’s 16th century’s urban expansion intended to provide a prestigious residential area for the Genoese aristocracy. The street, renamed in 1882 to honor the Italian unification hero Giuseppe Garibaldi, remains famous for its Renaissance architectural splendor. It is a showcase of the wealth and influence of the Genoese golden age, housing museums such as Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco, as well as Palazzo Tursi, now the city’s City Hall.

Palazzo Rosso – Baroque interior.

Palazzo Rosso — Built in the 17th century for the Brignole Sale family, the Red Palace features lavish Baroque interiors and an extensive art collection, including works by Van Dyck, Veronese, Guercino, and Strozzi. Visitors can also access the rooftop terrace for panoramic views of Genoa.

The loggia of the Palazzo Bianco overlooks the Via Garibaldi.

Palazzo Bianco — Built between 1530 and 1540 for Luca Grimaldi, the White Palace now displays an interesting collection of European paintings from the 12th to 17th centuries, including works by Caravaggio, Rubens, Van Dyck and Veronese.

San Lorenzo Cathedral

The richly frescoed aspe of the San Lorenzo Cathedral.

Construction of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo began in the early 12th century, on the site of an earlier 6th century church. Its distinctive black-and-white striped marble façade and sculpted portals, prevalent in Italy at the time, reflects the transition from Romanesque to Gothic style. The interior also features Renaissance and Baroque elements from later renovations, including the dazzling Baroque main altar and the extravagant side chapels sponsored by noble families. Also of note are the stunning ceiling frescoes by great local artists, including Luca Cambiaso.

San Pietro di Bianchi Church

San Pietro in Banchi Church.

As you wander around the maze of the carrugi, you will eventually come across the church of San Pietro in Bianchi. Rising above the tiny Piazza Bianchi, bustling with all manners of neighborhood shops, this small 16th century blend of Renaissance and Baroque gem with its triple-arched portico and frescoed facade, was built above street level to accommodate the commercial activity. Walk up the flight of stairs and enjoy its stunning altarpieces, frescoes, and serene atmosphere.

Piazza di Ferrari

The central fountain is a focal point of the city.

Originated in the late 19th century Piazza di Ferrari is part of the city’s effort to modernize and create a central public space between the historic medieval town and the newer, modern districts. The sprawling square itself took shape in the early 20th century, when it was gradually surrounded with elegant banks, theaters, and institutional buildings. Its iconic central fountain was installed in the 1930s to complete the urban design.

The piazza is surrounded by buildings of varied modern architectural styles.

The buildings around piazza showcase a mix of architectural styles. You’ll notice elements of Renaissance Revival, Baroque Revival, and Art Nouveau/Liberty style, reflecting the city’s transformation into a modern financial and cultural hub. Grand stone façades, ornate balconies, domes, and decorative sculptures give the square its emblematic appearance. Today, it is a popular meeting place for both locals and tourists, and the city’s hub for cultural, social, and political events.

Good to Know

Getting There — Genoa is located on the Mediterranean coast, in the northwestern part of Italy, about 200 kilometers (125 miles ) southeast of Milan, 400 kilometers (250 miles) northwest of Rome, and 150 kilometers (100 miles) east of the French border. By Air—Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo Airport is approximately 8 kilometers (5 miles) west of the city center. It handles both domestic and international flights from major cities within Europe. By Train — There are frequent daily train connections between Genoa and other major Italian cities. By Road — The A8/A10 highway offers scenic routes along the Mediterranean coast, between the South of France and Genoa.

Getting Around — The best way to explore the historic center of Genoa is on foot. The carrugi are mainly closed to vehicular traffic, and they are paved with uneven stones. Wear your most comfortable shoes.

Visiting — Palazzo Reale, 10 Via Balbi, is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm, and on the first and third Sundays of the month from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm. Palazzo Spinola , Piazza Pellicceria, is opened Tuesday from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm, Wednesday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm, and on the first and third Sundays of the month from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm. Palazzo Rosso ,18 Via Garibaldi, and Palazzo Bianco , 9 Via Garibaldi, are open Tuesday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, and weekends from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, is open daily from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm and 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm. The Church of San Pietro in Banchi is open Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, with masses on Saturdays and Sundays at 5:30 pm.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Genoa

Hôtel d’Assezat —Toulouse Home of the Bemberg Foundation

13 May 2025 | Europe, France, Places | 2 comments

A central point for trade between the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic since the Iron Age, Toulouse entered the historical period in the 2ndcentury B.C., when the Roman made it a strategic military outpost. Although the fortunes of the city then ebbed and flowed through well over a millennium of political and religious conflicts, the city managed to remain one the most important trading centers in France.

The Golden Age of Mansions

The Hotel d’Assezat is a masterpiece of Renaissance archetcure,

In the 16th century, Toulouse experienced a Golden Age, which coincided with the Renaissance in France. The city became the first European center for the trade in woad, the only blue dye then known in Europe, which was very much in demand in the textile industry at the time. Concurrently, the Parlement of Toulouse made the city the judicial capital of a large part of the south of France.

As befitted their status, the wealthy business and political elites commissioned hôtel particuliers (private mansions). Renowned for their opulence and the quality of their architecture, several of them have survived to this day, none more spectacular than the Hôtel d’Assézat.

The Hôtel d’Assézat

The iconic corner tower it the tallest in the city.

Built between 1555 and 1562, this magnificent Renaissance-style masterpiece was commissioned by its namesake Pierre d’Assézat, one of the city’s most illustrious merchants. It was designed by Nicolas Bachelier, one of Toulouse’s greatest Renaissance architects.

The Hôtel d’Assézat represents an exceptionally well-preserved early example of Italian Renaissance architecture adapted for France. It is constructed of the local rose-tinted brick with stone decor. From the street, the monumental entrance portal opens onto a grand inner courtyard where classic facades spanning three sides of the mansion are revealed. They are most notable for their grand loggia, ornately carved doorways, and the sets of paired columns that ascend the three-stories height of the building. The whole ensemble is topped by a 26-meter-high (85 feet) corner tower, the tallest private tower in the city.

The loggia opens onto the courtyard.

The mansion remained the property of the Assézat family until 1791, before passing to a succession of owners, the last of whom bequeathed it to the city in 1895. This act of civic largess set the stage for the opportunity a century later, to welcome to the city one of the great private European art collections, bringing together works from the 14th to the 20h century.

The Collector

Canaletto – Grand Canal at Santa Lucia. 1740
(Oil on canvas. 29.5 cm 11.6 in x 43.5 cm 17.1 in).

Georges Bemberg (1915–2011) was born into a German family that had settled in Argentina in the mid-19th century and made its fortune first in brewing, before diversifying into banking, among other things. He spent most of his childhood between Buenos Aires and Paris. As an adult he had homes in Buenos Aires, New York and Paris, and they needed filling— which may explain his eclectic collection: he bought what appealed to him.

Camille Pissarro – Felix Pissaror in a skirt. 1883. (Oil on canvas. 40.4 cm/15.9 in x 46.5 cm/18.3 in).

His first acquisition was a gouache by Pissarro, bought at the age of 20 in New York, and continued this activity until his death in Paris in 2011. His collection eventually numbered more than 1,000 works spanning five centuries, from the late 15th century to the Second World War. Bemberg never married and long before he died he set about ensuring that his collection could be enjoyed by the public. In 1993 he established the Bemberg Foundation — and focused on finding it a home.

Although Bemberg had no links with Toulouse, the then mayor heard of this major collection in search of a home – and offered the Hôtel d’Assézat in the historic heart of the city. It was love at first sight. “In a few seconds, my decision was made: it’s that or nothing,” Bemberg liked to recall. The Bemberg Foundation was inaugurated in January 1995.

The Collection

Canaletto —View of Dolo. Circa 1755 (oil on canvas, 29..5 cm/11.6 in x 43.5 cm/17.2).

Bequeathed to the city of Toulouse, with the condition that it be exhibited in the Hôtel d’Assézat, the collection is a treasure trove of western art ranging from the Renaissance to the early 20th century. It is particularly renowned for its rich collection of paintings from the French moderns, with works by artists such as Monet, Degas, Matisse and Bonnard. It also includes a notable array of 18th century Venetian paintings, sculptures and various objets d’art,

Claude Monet – Boats on the beach at Etretat. 1883 (Oil on Canvas 66 cm/26 in × 82.3 cm/32.4in.).

In its Renaissance-style salons, under its well preserved 16th century ceilings, the first floor brings back to life interiors of different eras by combining period furniture, paintings and objet d’art. Among the artists on display, we find Guardi, Cranach the Elder, Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto, Lorenzo Lotto and Jacopo Bassano. The second floor is a Who’s Who of 19th century and 20th century painters ranging from Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Edouard Vuillard and Paul Sérusier to Paul Gauguin, Alfred Sisley, Camille Pissarro, Berthe Morisot, Paul Signac, Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Raoul Dufy, Maurice de Vlaminck, Kees Van Dongen, Pablo Picasso, Georges Braque and Amedeo Modigliani.

The Pierre Bonnard room on the second floor of the Hotel Assezat.

Georges Bemberg’s greatest love, however, was the Post Impressionist Pierre Bonnard. He amassed 31 of his works, the greatest number outside the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and the Musée Bonnard in Le Cannet, north of Cannes. Displayed together, in a long room by themselves, they show the range of both his career and subject matter – landscapes and marine pictures, café scenes and still lifes, interiors and a woman washing – from the 1890s through to the 1940s.

Now, after a being closed for over three years for extensive renovations financed by the foundation’s trust, the Hôtel d’Assézat reopened in 2024. It is a joy to visit, both for the exceptional beauty of its Renaissance architecture and the unique quality of its eclectic collection.

Good to Know

Getting there —1 Place d’Assézat, 31000 Toulouse, the Bemberg Foundation is located in the historic center of the city, a 10 minute walk from the Place du Capitole, and a mere 5 minutes from the Garonne river and the Pont Neuf.
Visiting —The museum is open 10:00 am to 6:00 pmTuesday through Sunday, August through April, and everyday from May through July D’août.
Note —The Hôtel d’Assézat has been listed as a historic monument since 1914.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Hotel d'Assezat

Experiencing Italy — A First-Timer’s Itinerary — Siena

15 November 2024 | Europe, Italy, Journeys, Places | 2 comments

Days Nine to Eleven of your Italian Adventure — Leave Florence in the morning for a 75 to 90-minute journey south to another Renaissance gem: Siena.

The Republic of Siena Legacy

Renaissance Siena skyline.

Like most other Tuscan hill towns, Siena, was first settled in the time of the Etruscans (circa 900–400 B..C). It grew into an important city in medieval Europe, until feudal power waned by the end of the first millennium A.D. By the 12th century it had evolved into the Republic of Siena, a thriving city-state based on principles of commerce and governance. It would remain influential as a financial and cultural center throughout the Renaissance, leaving us a rich artistic heritage beautifully preserved to this day,

Where to Stay

Santa Maria in Provenzano view from the Palasseto Rosso

The historic heart of Siena, the Piazza del Campo, is regarded as one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares for its beauty and architectural integrity. Any hotel that attracts you in its vicinity will work for your three nights here. A notable favorite is the Palazzetto Rosso, an artfully renovated 13th century building on Villa de Rossi, a few steps away from the Campo. This friendly boutique hotel features contemporary design furnishings remarkably well integrated within the ancient structure, and spectacular views of the 17th century Baroque dome of the Santa Maria in Provenzano Church.

Days One and Two

The Piazza del Campo is the historic heart of the city.

Siena is a compact, easy to visit small town where the major sites are all within an easy walk from each other. With half a day on the day of your arrival plus one full day you can explore the best of Siena, enjoy leisurely cafe-terrace breaks and wander the city at sunset when the buildings take on a golden glow; then have time enough for a day-trip to the peerless countryside of the Val d’Orcia.

Palazzo Pubblico

Detail of the Allergory of Good Government fresco – Ambrogio Lorenzetti (1338-1339).

Dominating the Piazza del Campo, the early Gothic-style Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) was built in the late 13th century as the seat of the Republic of Siena’s government. Every major room in the palace features remarkable frescoes, unusual for their time in that they were commissioned by the secular governing body of the city. Hence, they mainly depict secular subjects instead of the religious themes that were the norm in Italian art of the era. The most remarkable are three panels of the series on government in the Sala della Pace (a.k.a Hall of the Nine), collectively known as The Allegory of Good and Bad Government.

Torre del Mangia

The Torre del Mangia dominates the Palazzo Pubblico.

Soaring from a corner of the Palazzo Pubblico, its elegant bell tower, the 87-meter high (285 feet) Torre del Mangia is one of the tallest secular medieval towers remaining in Italy. Built between 1338 and 1348, of bricks topped with a stone cornice and belfry, it takes its name from its first bell-ringer, a spendthrift known by the nickname Mangiaguadagni (earning eater) abbreviated to Mangia. It is over 300 steps to the top but the reward is well worth the effort, not only for the unique bird’s eye view of the Campo below but also to behold the legendary hills of Tuscany to the horizon.

Fonte Gaia

The Fonte de Gaia was designed by Jacopo della Quercia (marble, circa 1419).

Back at Campo level, feast your eyes on the Fonte Gaia, (Fountain of the Bride), the monumental early 14th century fountain decorated with marble panels sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia. The first fountain to bring water to the square (by underground pipes from 25 kilometers or 15 miles away), it was was dedicated to the “Bride of God” and patron of Siena, the Virgin Mary. However, the subjects on its planels and statues combine Roman matrons’ cardinal virtues with a central relief of the Madonna and Child, curiously framed by stories of Genesis.

Santa Maria Assunta

The Siena Cathedral’s exterior is clad in white Prato marble.

It’s a mere five-minute walk from the Palazzo Pubblico to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, one of Italy’s most famous Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals for its facade of white marble with the red and green veins, and its unique interior of black and white marble inlays and graffito floors that merely servie as a backdrop for its superb stain glass windows and its abundance of other remarkable artworks.

Piccolomini Library

The liibrary is a treasure trove of ancient manuscripts.

Within the Duomo complex, the Piccolomini Library is a not-to-be-missed masterpiece, not only for its brilliantly frescoed walls but for its exceptional collection of 15th and 16th century illuminated manuscripts, considered one of the richest in Europe.

The Baptistery

The baptisery features an elaboratel vaulted ceiling.

Contrary to other Italian cathedrals of the era, which required that the baptistery be located outside the church, at Santa Maria Assunta it is located at the rear of cathedral. It is noted for its superb frescoes by renowned artists and its lovely baptismal font. Well worth a walk through before exiting the church.

The Cathedral Museum

Detail of the rose window of the cathedral.

The museum is a repository for some of the most precious original works of art that were created for the Siena Cathedral, among them the eye-popping the stained-glass Rose Window by Duccio di Buoninsegna and the Treasury. The visit offers a unique opportunity to get close to the original stain glass windows and other original works, while their exact replicas can only be seen from afar in situ inside the cathedral.

Santa Maria della Scala

Santa Maria della Scala features several frescoed chapels.

Located across the street from the cathedral, Santa Maria della Scala was one of Europe’s first hospitals (founded in 898 AD). It was enlarged over the centuries into an enormous complex, most of which is now a museum featuring numerous chapels, a series of 14th century frescoes depicting the Life of the Virgin, famous altarpieces, and more. It also holds the original marble sculptures and panels from the Fonte Gaia.

Day Three — Val d’Orcia

Val d’Orcia vista.

Just south of Siena, the picture-perfect Val d’Orcia is a unique example of how the natural environment was manipulated and redesigned by man to express the Renaissance ideals of good governance and utopian landscaping. Here vineyards and olive groves climb up sun-baked hills toward ancient fortified villages, and country lanes lined with arrow-straight black cypresses meander across rolling meadows toward apricot-colored farmsteads.

Montalcino

Brunello vineyards reach surround Montalcino.

A delightful hilltop village that traces its winemaking tradition to the 14th century, Montalcino is considered by oenophiles as Tuscany’s ultimate destination. It offers a commanding view of rolling hills streaked to the horizon with the vineyards that produce some of Italy’s most prestigious reds, the Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino.

San’ Antimo

The remote San’Antimo church is surrounded by ancient cypress and olive trees

Another Val d’Orcia gem, San’ Antimo was built in the early 12th century in a remote pastoral setting of ancient cypress and olive trees. It is reputed to be one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy.

To make the most of your Val d’Orcia experience, consider booking a day-long private tour with a driver-guide. Out of Siena, there are literally dozens such offerings for you to choose from. On their recent visit, my friends used Montalcino Wine Tours and declared themselves delighted with the experience, which included two private winery visits and wine tastings, a sumptuous lunch at a local farm and several “photo stops” at sites of interest.

Good to Know

Getting There — There is equally convenient bus and train service linking the center of Florence to Siena, leaving approximately every hour throughout the day and taking about the same time (75 to 90 minutes). However, if you are open to a new experience. take Bus #131R, the express/non stop bus linking the two cities . Why? In Siena the train station is located a mile and half uphill walk from historic center, whereas the bus arrives at Piazza Gramsci/Viale Tozzi, on top of the hill and a very short walk from it.
Returning to Rome — There are no direct trains from Siena to Rome – all will require a connection, most often through Florence. However there are direct express busses (Flexbus ) throughout the day that will get you from Siena to the Rome in under three hours.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Siena - Piazza del Campo

Siena Duomo

Experiencing Italy — A First-Timer’s Itinerary — Florence

13 October 2024 | Europe, Italy, Journeys, Places | 0 comments

Days Six to Eight of your Italian Adventure — Leave Venice in the morning, It’s a three-hour train ride from Santa Lucia station to Florence Santa Maria Novella, which gets you there in the middle of the day.

The Land of the Medici

The Medici emblem decorates buildings throughout Florence.

Although Florence has a long history dating back to the Etruscan-Roman period, it was not until the 15th century that the capital of the Tuscan region earned its renown as the Cradle of the Renaissance. This reputation is mainly due to one powerful family: the Medici, a dynasty that began with the founding of the Medici Bank in 1397. It was to dominate the Florentine political life for three centuries; and shape Florence into one of Europe’s major artistic, and cultural centers.

Where to Stay?

The Palazzo Vecchio is the iconic image of medieval Florence.

Florence is a compact, easily walkable city that developed within the protection of its medieval walls, now gone except for some of its monumental towers. Everything you’ll want to see is within a mile from everything else, and it’s packed with tourists. For a convenient location in the heart of this historic center yet away from the frenzy, consider the area around the Piazza Santissima Annunziata (a 15-minute walk from the train station). There are accommodations of all types available in the immediate neighborhood. Most notably, the Loggiatto dei Serviti is an excellent hotel right on the eastern side of the piazza. Located in a fully renovated 15th century convent, the property consistently gets high marks for its understated elegance, impeccable comfort and superb service.

First Impressions

The porticoed facades were designed by Fillipo Brunelleschi..

Start off by taking in the exquisite harmony of the porticoes surrounding three sides of the Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Right across from the hotel, note the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), Europe’s first orphanage, with its Della Robbia medallions. The north side of the piazza is defined by the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata (Basilica of the Most Holy Annunciation). Then head south, past the huge equestrian bronze statue of Ferdinando I de’ Medici (circa 1608) to the Via dei Servi, toward the cupola of the Duomo.

Santa Maria del Fiore

The Duomo if entirely clad in pink, green and wihite marble.

The Cathedral Santa Maria of the Flowers (a.k.a the Duomo) is one of the largest churches in the world. With its outside entirely decorated with green, pink and white marble panels, and its soaring octagonal dome by Filippo Brunelleschi the largest brick and mortar dome in the word (114.5 m or 375.7 ft high and 45.5 m or 149 ft in diameter), it is also one of the most spectacular. A few steps farther, the matching marble-clad octagonal Baptistery with its three sets of elaborately sculpted bronze doors, is also a unique work of art.

Keep walking toward the river and the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), the iconic covered bridge that has been straddling the Arno since 1345. Along the way you will get a first look at most of the “guide book musts”, so you can decide which ones you’ll want to explore further.

Piazza della Signoria

the Piazza della Signoria has been the political heart of Florence since medieval times.

The political heart of Florence since the Middle Ages, the vast expanse of the Piazza della Signoria (Square of the Rulers) remains to this day the city’s most significant gathering place for locals and tourists alike. Find yourself a table at the terrace of the historic Caffé Rivoire. A local institution since 1872, it boasts a panoramic view of the monolithic silhouette of the Palazzo Vecchio, its entrance marked by the colossal white marble statue of David by Michelangelo (Actually it’s an exact copy, the original having been moved indoor to the Galleria dell’Accademia in 1873). Then, on the side adjoining the Uffizi Gallery, the elegant Loggia dei Lanzi showcases a stunning open air collection of ancient and Renaissance statuary.

The Uffizi Gallery

The cortile (internal courtyard) of the Uffizi is open to the Arno.

If you ever entertained the idea to overindulge on Renaissance art, a visit to the Uffizi (Offices) is for you! Originally commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1560 to consolidate his governing power, the building was intended to accommodate in one central place the various administrative bodies of the city, hence the name of Offices. The top floor was made into a gallery to house the rich Medici collection of Roman sculptures. After the House of Medici died out in 1743, the last heiress bequeathed their entire art collections to the city of Florence. The Uffizi was officially opened to the public in 1769. One of the most important museums in Italy, it is world-renowned for its collection of priceless works, particularly from the period of the Italian Renaissance.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio is a fortified medievial fortress.

The massive medieval structure with its 94m (308ft) tower, was built in the 13th century, as the seat of government of the Republic. In these turbulent times when the frequent power conflicts tended to end in violence, it also needed to be secure and defensible. The Palazzo della Signoria (Palace of the Rulers), as it was then called, retained its original function until 1540, when Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici ordered a restructuring and decoration of the building to make it his residence. It acquired its present appearance and became the Palazzo Ducale (Ducal Palace). It was renamed Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace) when Cosimo I later moved his residence across the Arno to the Pitti Palace.

The Renaissance courtyards were designed by Giorgio Vasari.

The Palazzo Vecchio is an intriguing place to visit. In addition to its elegant courtyards, it is filled with beautifully frescoed rooms, private apartments, secret passages and the legendary Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of the Five Hundred), intended hold the 500 members the Consiglio Maggiore (Grand Council). Decorated by Vasari, it is reflection of the boundless ambition of Cosimo I. Here, all the paintings and frescoes are about celebrating the victories of the new Duke as he conquers every city in Tuscany.

Basilica di Santa Croce

Giovani Cimabue – Crucifix (circa 1287). Basilica di Santa Croce.

Another absolute must, just a 10-minute walk from the Duomo, the Basilica of the Holy Cross is the principal Franciscan church in Florence. It houses the burial chapels of some of the most illustrious figures of the Renaissance, including Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli, as well as 19th century musical great Giacomo Rossini. It is also home to the incandescent Giotto polychrome altarpiece of the Coronation of the Virgin (circa 1328). The Neo-Gothic marble façade was added in the mid-19th century.

Local Atmosphere

Trattoria da Rocco is a popular feature of the Mercato..

Another few minutes’ walk takes you off the usual tourist track to the lively Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood, at the eastern end of the historic center. The Mercato Sant’Ambrogio, the oldest market in Florence has been the go-to spot for neighborhood shoppers since 1883, for meats, cheeses, fish and fresh produce as well as household goods and basic clothing. At the center of it, the popular Da Rocco trattoria is overflowing with Tuscan specialties and a great place for a casual lunch.

Take a gelato break at Vivoli..

Another Florence not-to-be-missed tradition, just a stone’s throw from Santa Croce, is a gelato break at Vivoli where, since 1929, four generations of the Vivoli family have been creating all natural homemade ice cream with high quality ingredients produced on the family farm.

Across the River

The Ponte Vecchio -view from the upper floor of the Uffizi.,

At some point during your stay, you’ll want to reserve at least half a day to explore the Oltrarno (quite literally the other side of the Arno). Developed outside the city’s walls, the Oltrarno was from the start a neighborhood of artisans, especially fullers, dyers and tanners who needed water from the river. Other trades followed, and their legacy lives on, along the narrow streets lined with shops where the last traditional Florentine craftspeople carry on. They are the engravers, gilders, enamelers and restorers of fine antiques. Other still bind books, make marbled paper and fine hand-made leather goods.

Early Renaissance Landmarks

Details of frescoes by Masolino and Masaccio (circa 1427).

Wander to the Basilica di Santo Spirito (Basilica of the Holy Spirit). It’s interior is one of the purest examples of early Renaissance architecture in Florence. Then continue on to the Church of San Fedriano. It is slightly out of the way but it is home to the Brancacci Chapel, with its ground-breaking cycle of frescoes by Masolino and Masaccio (circa 1427). They were the first to embrace perspective and light to create a realistic human dimension, and open the way for future generations of artists.

Palazzo Pitti

Florence skyline view from the terraces of the Palazzo Pitti.

Purchased in 1550, the Palace was chosen by Cosimo I de’ Medici and his wife Eleanor of Toledo as the new Grand Ducal residence. To that end, it was expended into the sprawling 32,000 square meter (eight-acre) residence that we know today, Eleonora also oversaw the addition of the sumptuous amphitheater-shaped Boboli Gardens at the rear of the palace.

Boboli Gardens – Fountain of Neptune.

For the next two centuries, the palace remained the primary residence of the Grand Dukes and the symbol of the Medici’s power over Tuscany. It also became an unimaginable treasure trove as the family accumulated artworks, jewels, china and furniture. Today is it the largest museum complex in Florence, with a rich collection spanning six centuries and including dedicated silver, porcelain, costume and carriage museums as well as painting and sculpture galleries.

The gardens have become an outdoor sculpture museum that includes roman antiquities as well as Renaissance works.

Panoramic view of the Ponte Vecchio

Good to Know

Visiting — Throughout the peak tourist season (especially June to October) long lines can plague the most popular sights in Florence. To make the most of your time in the city, plan well ahead by consulting the official website of the ticket office of the Florentine state museums and purchasing advanced tickets.
Churches — All the churches mentioned in this story are active places of catholic worship. They are typically open to visitors Monday through Saturday during the day and only at restricted hours on Sunday. Opening hours vary based on the schedule of religious services. Detailed information is usually provided on their official website. There is no charge to enter churches but there is a charge for specific additional visits such as the dome of the Duomo, adjoining cloisters or frescoed chapels. Note — There is a dress code to enter all churches in Italy. Both men and women are required to cover their knees and upper arms. This prohibits wearing shorts or skirts above the knee, sleeveless tops and low-cut shirts.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Florence

A Roadtrip Back to Medieval France — Rodez

2 July 2024 | Europe, France, Journeys, Places | 1 comment

Day Two — The French department of Aveyron is a place few visitors have ever heard of, much less visited. Sprawling across the southern edge of the mountainous Massif Central to reach the South of France, it remains one of the most rural areas of the country, and one of its least populated. Even its capital, Rodez, counts barely 25,000 inhabitants.

Rodez through the Ages

Interior courtyard of Benoit House (circa 12th or 13th century).

The first recorded settlers of the Aveyron were a tribe of Celtic origin who came to the area during the Iron Age. Around the 5th century B.C., they established the fortified settlement that would over time become Rodez atop a high plateau overlooking a gorge of the Aveyron river. Few traces remain of the successive invaders, Romans, Visigoths, Franks and Moors, that laid claim to the area over the following millennium. It was not until the high Middle Ages (10th to 12th centuries A.D.) that the city acquired regional significance.

The Cathedral

The west facade of the cathedral was originally a part of the town’s ramparts.

Rodez was christianized in the 5th century A.D.. The first mention of a cathedral appears shortly thereafter, although little is known of its features. What is well documented is the collapse of its bell tower and the roof of its choir on the 16th of February 1276. The work started shortly thereafter on the construction of the current pink sandstone cathedral. Its soaring bell tower has been the town’s symbol since its completion in the early 1500s. The construction, hampered by the plague and the Hundred Year War, took almost three centuries to complete, which accounts for the evolution of the architectural style of the edifice.

The ibell tower is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance stone lacework.

The eastern half of the cathedral was reserved for Chapter.

The iconic bell tower is a masterpiece of Gothic Flamboyant and Renaissance stone lacework and, at a height of 87 meters (285 feet) one of the highest flat bell towers in France. In stark contact, the west side façade — the traditional entrance of Gothic cathedrals — which was originally a part of the town’s ramparts, looks all the more foreboding. Therefore, the entrances are located in the north and south facades. Whichever side you enter, you are standing at the halfway point of the 100-meter (328-foot) long nave, and contemplating an unusual sight: two main altars facing off.

The altar for the cathedral chapter (and by extension the clergy) is at the eastern end, and the parish altar (for the common folks) at the western end. They stand as a reminder of the rivalry between the Counts and the Bishops, who for centuries exerted their authority in different sectors of the city.

Altarpiece of the Holy Sepulcher Chapel.

Once you grasp the layout, prepare to be amazed by the richly sculpted and decorated 15th century stalls of the choir, the abundance of wooden statuary and the many side chapels. Most stunning of all is the monumental 16th century altarpiece of the Holy Sepulcher Chapel and its polychrome stone carvings of the Entombment of Christ. We owe this masterpiece to Galhard Roux, a canon of the cathedral who had incurred the wrath of his bishop for his life of debauchery. He commissioned the chapel as a very public act of repentance. It’s interesting to spot his coat of arms, seal (roses and stars) and initials integrated into various decorative elements throughout, as a none too subtle reminder of the identity of the patron.

Highlights of the Old Town

The corner tower houses a spiral staircase.

Benoit House — The historic city center reveals itself in the narrow lanes and tiny squares within the old ramparts behind the cathedral, starting with the Place d’Estaing where a vaulted passageway at the corner of the square beckons you back into the Middle Ages. You are in the cobbled courtyard of the Benoit House (named for its 19th century owner). Built in the latter part of the 15th century, it has retained its gothic style, including its corner tower housing a spiral staircase. The building is privately owned and not open to visitors but the courtyard, with its red sandstone facade and lineup of gargoyles, is well worth a look.

The Armagnac House has retained its residential and commercial functions since Renaissance times.

Armagnac House — Although not related in any way to the famous brandy, this elegant manor house on the Place de l’Olmet is the finest example of Renaissance architecture in Rodez. Built in 1530 by a wealthy and recently ennobled merchant, the house was intended to reflect the social ascent of its owner. It is especially notable for its ornate facade. With a commercial ground floor and residential upper floors, it has retained the same layout and usage to this day.

Detail of the turret pf the Annunciation House.

Annunciation House — Another 16th century commercial and residential Renaissance gem, the Annunciation House owes its name to the remarkable bas-relief representing that scene from the gospels adorning the base of its turret.

Fenaille Museum

The internal courtyard of the Hôtel de Jouéry.

Another exceptional Renaissance mansion is the Hôtel de Jouéry, now home to the Fenaille Museum., a small archeology museum retracing the history of the area from the Paleolithic times to the 17th century. It is organized around four main themes: the statue-menhirs, Roman times Rodez, the Rouergue in the Middle Ages (as the Aveyron was then called), and the 16th century and the Renaissance.

The Fenaille Museum houses a unique collection of prehistoric standing stones.

However, it is its unique collection of 17 statue-menhirs (standing stones) that has earned it international fame. Created almost 5000 years ago, these enigmatic sculptures are the oldest depictions of life-size humans found in Europe. Little is known about the tribes that inhabited the area between 3000 B.C. and 2000 B.C., other than their remarkable ability to create these monumental sculptures. Striking for their intricate carvings on both sides, these elongated forms with oval or rounded heads portray both men and women, adorned with clothing, jewelry, weaponry, and even scarification marks.

Without any surviving oral traditions to provide insight into their meaning or purpose, the true significance of these megaliths remains an intriguing matter of conjecture.

Rodez – Panoramic view.

Good to know

Getting there — Rodez is an easy couple of hours’ drive north of metropolitan Toulouse or Montpellier.
Getting around — The entire historic center is pedestrians only.
Visiting — The Fenaille Museum 4 Place Eugène-Raynaldy.12000 Rodez, is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. It is closed on Monday, January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.