France - Josette King

A Unique Masterpiece of Roman Engineering — The Pont du Gard

13 April 2025 | Europe, France, Places | 0 comments

In the first century A.D., the prosperous Roman colony of Nemausus (now Nîmes) in the Southeast of France, saw its population grow to 20,000. Its existing water source was fast reaching the point where it would no longer sustain the city’s daily need for drinking water.

In keeping with the model of the capital of the empire, the colony decided to create an aqueduct that would channel water from the source of the Eure in Uzés, some 50 kilometers (31 miles ) away, all the way into the city. This achievement was to give Nîmes a new prestige. It enabled the creation of public fountains and thermal baths, and brought running water to the residences of the wealthy.

A Roman Engineering Masterpiece

The aqueduct consists of three layers of superposed arches,

The aqueduct wound through the scrubland, bypassing hills, or passing through them in underground channels dug out to install pipes, and crossing valleys by way of elevated structures. Thanks to an average slope of 25 cm per kilometer (among the lowest ever achieved at that time) the aqueduct conveyed by gravity an estimated 40,000 cubic meters (11,000 US gallons) of water per day from its Uzès source to Nîmes. The biggest challenge, crossing the Gardon River, was overcome by the construction of the Pont du Gard.

The lower arches soar to a height of 22 meters (72 feet)

The aqueduct bridge is exceptional for its dimensions. At 49 meters (160 feet) in height, it is the highest Roman aqueduct bridge ever built. It consists of three tiers of arches, one above the other (6 arches on the first level, 11 arches on the second level and, originally, 47 arches on the third). Today, the Pont du Gard remains one of the best preserved Roman aqueducts in the world.

A Colossal Undertaking

Major blocks were numbered and inscribed ro indicate their location.

Ancient records show that nearly a thousand men contributed to the construction of the colossal project, which was completed in just five years. Built around 50 A.D., during the reigns of the emperors Claudius and Nero, the aqueduct, of which the Pont du Gard is a major part, was to supply the city of Nîmes with running water for over five centuries.

The Pont du Gard was constructed without the use of mortar or clamps. It contains an estimated 21,000 cubic meters (740,000 cubic feet) of limestone, extracted from a local quarry located approximately 700 metres (2,300 ft) downstream. The individual blocks, some of them weighing up to 6 tons, were precisely cut to fit together by friction and gravity. Many blocks were numbered and inscribed with their required location. All the foundations were anchored into the rock base to resist the assaults of the Gardon River’s fierce seasonal flooding.

Millenium old olive trees still stand guard by the bridge.

After the collapse of the Roman Empire, the aqueduct gradually fell into disuse. But although some of its stones were looted, the Pont du Gard remained largely intact. Then from the 13th century on, its survival was ensured by its use as a toll bridge, when the French king granted the lords of Uzès, and then later the Bishops of Uzès, the right to levy tolls on those using the bridge. In return, they were responsible for maintaining it in good repair.

Modern Times

The museum features full-scale models of the bridge construction.

In the 18th century, a road bridge was added to the ancient structure, and over time it became an important tourist destination. Then in recent times, series of renovations commissioned by local authorities and the French state culminated in 2000 with the opening of a new visitor center and museum. This comprehensive discovery centre on Roman engineering, with models, full-scale reconstruction and multimedia screens outlines the whole story of this unique ancient engineering masterpiece.

The vicinity of the bridge is now entirely pedestrianized and today, in all its Roman times grandeur and bucolic setting, le Pont du Gard is one of Southeastern France’s most popular tourist attractions.

The Pont du Gard is one of Southeastern France’s most popular tourist attractions.

Good to Know

Getting there — The Pont du Gard site is located 27 kilometers (17 miles) from Nîmes and 21 kilometers ( 13 miles) from Avignon on the A9 motorway, exit 23 – Remoulins. Road signs indicate the access to the right or left bank, depending on your preference. There is ample parking on either sides. Parking fee is €9/car per day,

Visiting —The museum is open year around from 9:30 to 17.30 (19.00 during the summer months). It is closed Monday mornings. Throughout the year it offers a full schedule of exhibitions, concerts, heritage days and nature outings. Access to the bridge is free. Entrance to the cultural areas is € 8 per adult. Free for children under 18.

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Pont du Gard

A Roadtrip Back to Medieval France — Deep in the Aveyron

20 July 2024 | Europe, France, Journeys, Places | 0 comments

Day Three – It’s mid-morning by the time we leave Rodez, the sleepy hilltop administrative capital of the Aveyron, the little known region isolated on the remote southern edge of the Massif Central.

The Aveyron is a land of remote medieval villages.

Soon, we enter what the French call la France profonde (the deepest of the deep heartlands), a sparsely populated land of forested hills, fortified villages perched on ridges and ancient hamlets pressed into the sides of steep valleys. Little seems to have changed here since the Middle Ages, when Christian pilgrims were walking the Camino de Santiago route toward the northwestern reaches of Spain.

The Priory of Comberoumal

The small chapter house features a Romanesque vault.

At the end of a narrow country road, we reach the ancient priory of Comberoumal, founded in the 12th century by hermits of the Order of Grandmont. Built according to the rules of the order, the ensemble consists of a cloister, a square chapter house with a Romanesque vault and triple arched door, a common room and a dormitory. The church features a single nave with a barrel vault, lit only by four Romanesque windows in the semi-circular choir.

The farming complex is still occupied today,

After the order was abolished during the French Revolution (in 1772), the monastery, along with its adjoining farming buildings and lands were declared a national property. It was eventually acquired (in 1820) by the family of sheep farmers who still owns and operates it today, producing ewe’s milk destined to the production of Roquefort cheese. Sheep scattered through the lush surrounding meadows add to the timeless bucolic charm of the priory.

Castelnau-Pégayrols

Castelnau-Pegayrols is a maze of cobbled narrow alleys and arched passage ways.

A little further on, we reach the village of Castelnau-Pegayrols, a medieval gem also still inhabited today. Perched on a hilltop and crowned with the 11th century feudal castle that gave it its name, “Castel-nau” (I.e. new castle) has remained almost intact within its rampart. Its Saint Michel church (circa 11thth century), a fine example of early Romanesque style, remains the village’s parish church. The small Benedictine priory nearby with its lovely mullioned windows is now the village history museum.

The Church of our Lady is surrounded by the village cemetery.

In the lower part of the village, the Church of Our Lady of Castelnau is surrounded by the cemetery. Deconsecrated long ago, it is now used for occasional artistic events. Built for the parish around 1082, after the Benedictine monks settle here and appropriated the church of Saint-Michel, this second purely Romanesque church somehow acquired Baroque mural paintings in 17th century.

Also not to be missed are the remains of a unique medieval hydraulic system that supplied Castelnau with water, operated its three grain mills and controlled the irrigation of the fields.

A millennium of Cheese-making

The village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon abuts limestone cliffs.

Although it only counts around 600 inhabitants, the ancient village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon is known worldwide for its ewe’s milk cheese, seeded with a specific mold called penicillium roqueforti and aged in caves where fleurines (natural cracks in limestone cliffs) allow ideal ventilation. The international reputation of the cheese dates back to the writings of the Roman scholar Pliny the Elder (1st century A.D.). Then in 1411, King Charles VI granted a monopoly to the village for refining it in this manner.

Roquefort cheese is ripened in ancient limestone caves.

The cheese even has its own legend, that it owes its origins to a young shepherd who, while eating his lunch of bread and plain ewe’s milk cheese, noticed a beautiful maiden in the distance. Abandoning his lunch in a nearby cave, he ran off to meet her. We can assume it was a satisfactory encounter since he didn’t return to the cave until several months later, when he discovered that blue mold had transformed his plain cheese into Roquefort.

The aged Roquefort is marbled with penicillium roqueforti mold.

Roquefort cheese is made entirely from the milk of the Lacaune breed of sheep, herded on some 2000 local farms. Today, there are seven producers. The largest volume brand by far is Roquefort Société which hold a 12,000 square meters (130,000 square feet) network of caves several stories high, constructed in the middle ages. The caves and tunnels are still in use today for the ripening of the cheese and account for around 60% of all production. The caves welcome visitors for guided tours year round.

A Link to the Future

The Viaduct of Millau unobstrusively spans the Tarn Valley.

As we wander around this land of ancient villages, we come across a surreal vision. In the distance, anchored to the rim of two high plateaux, the Viaduct of Millau spans the rugged Tarn Valley below. Inaugurated in 2004, this cable stay bridge is a masterpiece a modern technology. In addition to its total length of 2.5 kilometers(1.50 miles), it is also one of the tallest bridges in the world, soaring 343 meters (1,125 feet ) into the sky, supported by seven tapered concrete pylons and a latticework of cables.

The viaduct is supported by slick concrete pylons and a latticework of cables.

Its architect, the celebrated British lord Norman Foster, used light, ultramodern materials to give drivers crossing the bridge the feeling of flying over the valley. He insisted that the roads used to haul materials and equipment during the three-year construction be covered over to ensure that the bridge would be surrounded by unspoiled terrain and blend seamlessly into the timeless Aveyron landscape.

Much is being made of the fact that at its highest point, the bridge is 19 meters (62 feet) taller than the Eiffel Tower. But beyond its impressive height, the viaduct is breathtaking for its sleek, aerodynamic beauty and minimal impact on the surrounding landscape.

Aveyron- Viaduct of Millau.

Good to Know

Getting there —The Millau Viaduct is part of the A75 highway axis from Paris to Béziers and Montpellier, which itself is part of the E11 highway network that connects Calais to the Mediterranean coast.
Visiting — The Priory of Comberoumal is a privately owned property. Individual visitors are welcome year round. Guided visits for small groups are by appointment only. Contact Mr. or Mrs. Bastide. Tel. +33 (0)5 65 62 08 75. The Roquefort Société Caves are open year-round for guided visits. Check website for opening hours. The Millau Viaduct features a visitor center located near the north side of the bridge. In addition to an exhibit covering the construction of the bridge, it offers access to a viewing belvedere with a unique panoramic view of the viaduct (via a long, steep flight of stairs).

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Castelnau-Pégayrols

A Roadtrip Back to Medieval France — Rodez

2 July 2024 | Europe, France, Journeys, Places | 1 comment

Day Two — The French department of Aveyron is a place few visitors have ever heard of, much less visited. Sprawling across the southern edge of the mountainous Massif Central to reach the South of France, it remains one of the most rural areas of the country, and one of its least populated. Even its capital, Rodez, counts barely 25,000 inhabitants.

Rodez through the Ages

Interior courtyard of Benoit House (circa 12th or 13th century).

The first recorded settlers of the Aveyron were a tribe of Celtic origin who came to the area during the Iron Age. Around the 5th century B.C., they established the fortified settlement that would over time become Rodez atop a high plateau overlooking a gorge of the Aveyron river. Few traces remain of the successive invaders, Romans, Visigoths, Franks and Moors, that laid claim to the area over the following millennium. It was not until the high Middle Ages (10th to 12th centuries A.D.) that the city acquired regional significance.

The Cathedral

The west facade of the cathedral was originally a part of the town’s ramparts.

Rodez was christianized in the 5th century A.D.. The first mention of a cathedral appears shortly thereafter, although little is known of its features. What is well documented is the collapse of its bell tower and the roof of its choir on the 16th of February 1276. The work started shortly thereafter on the construction of the current pink sandstone cathedral. Its soaring bell tower has been the town’s symbol since its completion in the early 1500s. The construction, hampered by the plague and the Hundred Year War, took almost three centuries to complete, which accounts for the evolution of the architectural style of the edifice.

The ibell tower is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance stone lacework.

The eastern half of the cathedral was reserved for Chapter.

The iconic bell tower is a masterpiece of Gothic Flamboyant and Renaissance stone lacework and, at a height of 87 meters (285 feet) one of the highest flat bell towers in France. In stark contact, the west side façade — the traditional entrance of Gothic cathedrals — which was originally a part of the town’s ramparts, looks all the more foreboding. Therefore, the entrances are located in the north and south facades. Whichever side you enter, you are standing at the halfway point of the 100-meter (328-foot) long nave, and contemplating an unusual sight: two main altars facing off.

The altar for the cathedral chapter (and by extension the clergy) is at the eastern end, and the parish altar (for the common folks) at the western end. They stand as a reminder of the rivalry between the Counts and the Bishops, who for centuries exerted their authority in different sectors of the city.

Altarpiece of the Holy Sepulcher Chapel.

Once you grasp the layout, prepare to be amazed by the richly sculpted and decorated 15th century stalls of the choir, the abundance of wooden statuary and the many side chapels. Most stunning of all is the monumental 16th century altarpiece of the Holy Sepulcher Chapel and its polychrome stone carvings of the Entombment of Christ. We owe this masterpiece to Galhard Roux, a canon of the cathedral who had incurred the wrath of his bishop for his life of debauchery. He commissioned the chapel as a very public act of repentance. It’s interesting to spot his coat of arms, seal (roses and stars) and initials integrated into various decorative elements throughout, as a none too subtle reminder of the identity of the patron.

Highlights of the Old Town

The corner tower houses a spiral staircase.

Benoit House — The historic city center reveals itself in the narrow lanes and tiny squares within the old ramparts behind the cathedral, starting with the Place d’Estaing where a vaulted passageway at the corner of the square beckons you back into the Middle Ages. You are in the cobbled courtyard of the Benoit House (named for its 19th century owner). Built in the latter part of the 15th century, it has retained its gothic style, including its corner tower housing a spiral staircase. The building is privately owned and not open to visitors but the courtyard, with its red sandstone facade and lineup of gargoyles, is well worth a look.

The Armagnac House has retained its residential and commercial functions since Renaissance times.

Armagnac House — Although not related in any way to the famous brandy, this elegant manor house on the Place de l’Olmet is the finest example of Renaissance architecture in Rodez. Built in 1530 by a wealthy and recently ennobled merchant, the house was intended to reflect the social ascent of its owner. It is especially notable for its ornate facade. With a commercial ground floor and residential upper floors, it has retained the same layout and usage to this day.

Detail of the turret pf the Annunciation House.

Annunciation House — Another 16th century commercial and residential Renaissance gem, the Annunciation House owes its name to the remarkable bas-relief representing that scene from the gospels adorning the base of its turret.

Fenaille Museum

The internal courtyard of the Hôtel de Jouéry.

Another exceptional Renaissance mansion is the Hôtel de Jouéry, now home to the Fenaille Museum., a small archeology museum retracing the history of the area from the Paleolithic times to the 17th century. It is organized around four main themes: the statue-menhirs, Roman times Rodez, the Rouergue in the Middle Ages (as the Aveyron was then called), and the 16th century and the Renaissance.

The Fenaille Museum houses a unique collection of prehistoric standing stones.

However, it is its unique collection of 17 statue-menhirs (standing stones) that has earned it international fame. Created almost 5000 years ago, these enigmatic sculptures are the oldest depictions of life-size humans found in Europe. Little is known about the tribes that inhabited the area between 3000 B.C. and 2000 B.C., other than their remarkable ability to create these monumental sculptures. Striking for their intricate carvings on both sides, these elongated forms with oval or rounded heads portray both men and women, adorned with clothing, jewelry, weaponry, and even scarification marks.

Without any surviving oral traditions to provide insight into their meaning or purpose, the true significance of these megaliths remains an intriguing matter of conjecture.

Rodez – Panoramic view.

Good to know

Getting there — Rodez is an easy couple of hours’ drive north of metropolitan Toulouse or Montpellier.
Getting around — The entire historic center is pedestrians only.
Visiting — The Fenaille Museum 4 Place Eugène-Raynaldy.12000 Rodez, is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. It is closed on Monday, January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.

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Rodez

A Roadtrip Back to Medieval France – The Abbey of Conques

22 June 2024 | Europe, France, Journeys, Places | 0 comments

Day One — Nestled in the densely forested hillsides of the Aveyron, the remote Southwestern-most corner of France’s Massif Central, the Abbey of Conques reveals itself at a bend in the narrow country road, much as it must have appeared to pilgrims of the Middle Ages.

Conques grew from a small hermitage.

The Abbey owes its origins to a hermit who retired to that very spot in the latter part of the 8th century A.D., to live a contemplative life. Other men joined him and, as their community grew, their small hermitage became affiliated with the Benedictine order in 819 A.D.

Relics Tourism

Conques developped as an important stop on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route.

Coincidentally, this was the year when the relics of Saint James the Great (apostle of Christ) were discovered in Compostela by the local bishop. Exactly how and why the remains of the saint, beheaded in 44 A.D. in Jerusalem, made it to the Atlantic shores of northern Spain, is a matter of conjecture. But soon the shrine of Santiago de Compostela became the ultimate pilgrimage site of the Christian world.

At Conques, the small reliquary “From Pepin” has a collection of 9th-11th century items.

The 9th century was a time when the veneration of relics grew dramatically throughout Catholic Europe. Along the pilgrimage routes, worshipers were drawn to the abbeys that held them. The prosperity brought by these medieval tourists proved quite a lure for the monks of the recently minted Abbey of Conques. After some fruitless attempts to obtain their own relics, they turned their attention to the much revered ones of Sainte Foy in nearby Agen. Sainte Foy was a Christian maiden who lived in the town of Agen at the turn of the 4th century. When she was martyred around 303 A.D. by the Roman governor Diocletian for her refusal to recognize pagan gods, her remains were preserved and venerated by the faithful. Over time she became known for her power to cure blindness and free captives, and her reliquary, housed at a local monastery, became a major attraction for pilgrims.

A Furtive Transfer

The statue-reliquary shrine Sainte Foy can still be seen at Conques today.

.The Conques brothers contrived to insert one of their own as an undercover agent at the Agen monastery. There, he posed as a loyal Agen monk for a decade, until he was able to abscond with the relics and return to Conques with them in 866. This highly questionable sleigh of hand was piously recorded in the history of the abbey as a “furtive transfer.”

By the 12th century, Conques had become the first fortified borough in the area.

The village grew around the church.

The arrival of Sainte Foy’s relics in their new home had the desired effect. Her mortal remains housed inside a flashy golden reliquary-statue and her well-publicized powers were enough to turn Conques into a major stop on one of the main routes of the Camino de Santiago, the way to Santiago de Compostela. The abbey prospered as pilgrims streamed through to pray to the reliquary, and hope to be cured of blindness or to secure the release of relatives captured by whichever enemy they had had the misfortune to meet. They also contributed substantial donations, including jewels to be added to the statue of the saint. The ecclesiastic community grew and construction works to expand the abbey went on continuously over the next two centuries. Meanwhile, merchants and tradesmen settled on the sunny slope dominating the abbey. Surrounded by ramparts pierced by fortified gates, the village expanded along a network of narrow cobbled streets leading to the church.

A Medieval Masterpiece

The barrel-vaulted nave soars to exceptional heights.

Protected by its isolated location, Conques has changed little since the late Middle Ages. Parts of the fortified walls, along with three of their gates, still surround the ancient half-timbered houses and the magnificent Romanesque church is now considered the oldest remaining shrine on the Camino de Santiago. Like all pilgrimage churches, Sainte Foy of Conques required a vast layout that could accommodate large number people. However, the hillside location chosen by the hermit a couple of centuries earlier may have been ideal for mediation, but it presented a challenge to the builders of an important church and abbey.

The columns holding the massive arches are decorated with intricately carved capitals. .

Massive retaining walls had to be built to the north side to prevent landslides, and to the south to hold the earth platform for the planned cloister. Even so, the area available for construction remained limited, which explains the unusually compact church plan. Here, the apse has a minimal depth and the nave is quite short (21 meters, or 69 feet) compared with the transept (35 meters, or 115 feet). To compensate for the reduced surface area, the architects developed the height of the building. The narrow, barrel-vaulted nave soars to an amazing 21 meters (68 feet), the sense of verticality still intensified by the open upper gallery which run the length of the nave and transept.

Capitals depict de feats of knights.

In addition to offering strikingly plunging views of the nave, the upper gallery affords a remarkable opportunity to get a closer look at many of the 212 columns in Conques with decorated capitals, including palm leaves, symbols, birds, biblical monsters and scenes from the life of Sainte Foy. These capitals provided educational picture books for the mainly illiterate monks and pilgrims, and some of them are remarkably expressive.

A Warning Cast in Stone

Above the main entrance to the church, the Tympanum details The Last Judgement

There is little exterior ornamentation other than the necessary buttresses and cornices on the fortress-like church, but for one striking exception: a monumental depiction of the Last Judgment on the high semi-circular carved scene that stretches above the central portal. Sculpted between 1107 and 1125, and with the Christ in Majesty presiding over the scene, the Archangel Michael and a demon weigh the souls of the dead on scales at his feet. In all. A crowd of sculpted figures (124 in all) depict the Celestial Court, the angels, the elected, the condemned and other devils come to life.

The lower part of the Tympanum, shows the damned roasting on a spike.

On the bottom level, Heaven and Hell are depicted as roofed buildings, each with an entrance door. On the right side, the damned are forcibly pushed into the Jaws of Hell, where their tortures are shown in graphic details. On the left, the chosen ones are being welcomed by angels, who lead them gently by the hand through an ornate door to the Kingdom of Heaven.

Monastic Buildings

Only a few arches remain of the cloisters.

Few things remain from the monastic building that once sheltered an important community of Benedictine monks. Most of the cloisters have disappeared, but for a few arches around the grassy courtyard on the south side of the church. In the center of the courtyard is a large serpentine (dark greenish stone) basin rebuilt from original parts during a renovation of the cloisters. The gallery on the west side of the courtyard contains some fascinating Romanesque capitals dating back to the late 11th century, representing various scenes of life at the time including an Annunciation, knights in battle, horn-blowers, and even construction workers leaning out over an unfinished tower, holding the tools of their trade.

The Treasury

The statue-reliquary head of Sainte Foy is crowned with jewels and ancient cameos.

The west gallery of the cloisters houses what is considered to be one of the most important medieval treasuries in Europe. The 9th century statue of Sainte Foy, which contains her relics, is the star attraction. It was originally displayed in the church’s choir, encircled by a fine wrought-iron screen protecting it from thieves (An ironic precaution given its history). The statue-reliquary is made of wood completely covered in gold. She wears golden robes and a crown encrusted with jewels and cameos, some dating from Roman times. It is the only surviving example of statue-reliquary shrines that were common in the Middle Ages.

Th treasury contains a unique collection of masterpieces by medieval goldsmiths,

The seated figure is rather masculine in appearance for a young female saint – in fact, the head is thought to have been repurposed from a statue of a Roman emperor. The face has a blank expression but the eyes are piercing. Relics of the saint’s skull are enshrined in the back of the statue. Also in the treasury are over 20 golden art masterpieces by medieval goldsmiths, including an exceptional 9th century chest donated by King Pepin, son of Charlemagne. Also on display is the arm with which Saint George the Dragon Slayer is claimed to have slain the monster. In the aftermath of the French Revolution, the relics and treasures were hidden by local residents to prevent them to be confiscated by the state. Remarkably, the entire treasure was returned intact after the political turmoil abated.

Good to Know

Getting there — Located in the remote Aveyron department of the Occitania region in Southwestern France, Conques is about 35 kilometres (22 miles) north of Rodez, 185 kilometers (115 miles) northeast of Toulouse and 200 kilometers (125 miles) northwest of Montpellier. It can be reached only by two-lanes country roads. The entire village is pedestrians only. There is a parking lot near the entrance gated entrance of the village.

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The Abbey of Conques

Avignon, France — The Other Papal City

15 November 2022 | Europe, France, Places | 1 comment

The skyline of Avignon is a mighty fortress that spreads its majestic walls across the sunbaked landscape of Provence. Everlasting witness to the power of the papacy over the Middle Ages, the Palace of the Popes remains the greatest gothic palace in the world. Although the historic town draws well over half a million visitors a year, many of them, other that papal history buffs and French school children, may not be aware how for most of the 14th century this small, heavily fortified southern French city on the bank of the Rhône river came to be the capital of Christendom.

It Began with Charlemagne

The Palais des Papes is the largest Gothic palace ever built.

Like most of the major events that shaped modern Europe, it began with Charlemagne, King of the Franks (771-814), a powerful Germanic tribe whose territories covered present-day western Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, and France. A determined expansionist and skilled military strategist, he had by the end of his reign extended his reach across western and central Europe.

A staunch defender of Christianity, he supported the church with funds and land, and extended his protection to the Pope. To acknowledge the power of his benefactor and reinforce the relationship with the papacy, Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne Emperor of the Romans on December 25, 800, at St. Peter Basilica in Rome. In the process, in addition to its spiritual leadership role, he asserted the papacy as a major authority in geopolitical matters. The consequences of this quid pro quo would reverberate throughout Europe for centuries.

The Passion of Christ sculpture- housed in the Consistory – is a remarkable exemple of Medieval art.

Charlemagne’s descendants proved incapable of keeping his vast empire together. By 888, France, Germany and Italy had become separate states. Who then was to be emperor? The nominee of the pope, himself a puppet of Italian aristocratic factions? Charlemagne’s rightful heir, whoever he might be? Or the strongest king in Europe? Centuries of political intrigue and ever-shifting alliances ensued, throughout which the imperial crown was habitually set on a succession of Germanic heads. And disputes between the Popes and the Emperors continued, over which of them was the secular leader of Christendom, with the Pope’s side most often bolstered by the French kings.

The Road to Avignon

The main entrance of the papal palace.

By the early 14th century, however, Pope Boniface VIII and the French monarch, the autocratic Philippe IV, were feuding over Philippe’s decision to tax the considerable wealth of the Church in France to finance his war with the English. The feud turned violent, with Italian allies of the King of France breaking into the papal residence and assaulting Boniface VIII, who died shortly thereafter. A successor who would not be hostile toward Philippe was promptly elected. However, after a pontificate that lasted a mere eight months, Benedict XI died suddenly — poisoning was suspected although never proven.

Cloister of the Old Palace

His successor Clement V, a Frenchman and personal friend of King Philippe, was in France when elected and thought it prudent to never travel to Rome. In 1309, he decided to establish his Papal Court in Avignon, where it was to remain for the next seven decades.

The Builder Popes

Scaled model of the completed palace.

Clement V (1305-1314) lived simply as a guest in the Dominican monastery of Avignon. Then his successor John XXII (1316-1334) started the process of rebuilding and enlarging the old episcopal palace, which sat on a natural rocky outcrop overlooking the river at the northern edge of Avignon, and convert it into a fortified palace. However, it was John’s two successors who became the main builders of the impregnable fortress that stands to this day.

Cour d’Honneur (Ceremonial Courtyard) of the New Palace.

Benedict XII (1334-1342) built the first pontifical palace, an austere stronghold set around a vast cloister (now referred to as the Palais Vieux, or Old Palace). Then Clement VI (1342-1352) expanded Benedict’s palace with more lavish constructions around a grand internal courtyard. Now known as the Palais Neuf, or New Palace, it became the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe, with 15,000 square meters (160,000 square feet) of floor space.The immense size of the palace facilitated the integration of the Curia (church administration) into the truly central administration of the Church that suited the needs of the papacy.

Life at the Pontifical Court

The Great Clementine Chapel held liturgical events.

More than 20 rooms are open to visitors, including several ceremonial halls of majestic proportions, such as the Consistory, the Grand Audience Hall with its remarkable ceiling frescoes of the prophets, the 52 meters (170 feet) long Great Clementine Chapel, which held official events and liturgical services, and the soaring Grand Tinel. The latter was primarily a reception and banquet room, but during conclaves, it was the room where the cardinals assembled to elect the new pope. For the occasion, the room was temporarily walled, with only a small aperture left open to provide the necessary food.

Detail of the chambre du cerf (room of the deer) fresco

The visit also includes the private apartments of Clement VI: the papal chamber and private study, commonly called the chambre du cerf (room of the deer), for the remarkable hunting scene frescoes that decorate the walls. The subject matter, while common in secular art at the time, is as unexpected in a room supposedly dedicated to study as it is for a room in a papal apartment.

St John Chapel frescoes by Matteo Giovanetti.

Other highlights include the Saint Martial and Saint John chapels, decorated with sumptuous frescoes by the Italian master Matteo Giovanetti, who had been charged by Clement VI to lead the decoration of the Palace. While a large proportion of these creations were lost in the course of time, several have survived to bear witness to the innovative artistic work created by the French and Italian schools of paintings in the 14th century – and the lavish ceremonial lifestyle of the pontifical court that supported it.

More on Papal Politics

Portraits of the Popes of Avignon – imagined by 19th century artist Henri Serrur.

Three more popes would keep their seat of power in the French city until the last of them, Gregory XI (1370–1378) brought the Avignon papacy to an end in 1377 when he returned the papal court to Rome. However, this departure was not the end of the Avignon popes. The following year, the Roman Catholic Church split apart when a faction of cardinals refused to recognizes Gregory’s successor, the newly appointed Pope Urban VI. Instead, they elected a rival Pope, and returned to Avignon. Thus from 1378 to 1403, during a period known as the Western Schism, Avignon was the seat of a rival papacy, its popes referred to by the official church in Rome as “Antipopes.”

Avignon – the Palace of the Popes.

Good to Know

Getting there — By Train: Avignon is located in southeastern France, 700 kilometers south of Paris. It is easily accessible in less than three hours by non-stop TVG (high-speed train) throughout the day from Paris – Gare de Lyon to the Avignon TGV station. The TGV station lies slightly outside of town, and is connected via regular shuttle trains to the Avignon Central Station (Gare d’Avignon Centre just outside the fortification walls on the southern edge of the old town. The city is also well connected other main cities in France and surrounding countries via regional regional and intercity trains. These arrive at the Avignon Centre station.
Visiting — The Popes’ Palace, Place du Palais, 84000 Avignon, France, is open every day, all year round from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm. Check the website for extended visiting hours during the summer season. Contact: tel. +33 (0) 4 32 74 32 74. Accessibility: due to its multiple stone stairways, the palace is regrettably not accessible to persons with reduced mobility.