Days Nine to Eleven of your Italian Adventure — Leave Florence in the morning for a 75 to 90-minute journey south to another Renaissance gem: Siena.

The Republic of Siena Legacy

Renaissance Siena skyline.

Like most other Tuscan hill towns, Siena, was first settled in the time of the Etruscans (circa  900–400 B..C). It grew into an important city in medieval Europe, until feudal power waned by the end of the first millennium A.D. By the 12th  century it had evolved into the Republic of Siena, a thriving city-state based on principles of commerce and governance. It would remain influential as a financial and cultural center throughout the Renaissance, leaving us a rich artistic heritage beautifully preserved to this day,

Where to Stay

Santa Maria in Provenzano view from the Palasseto Rosso

The historic heart of Siena, the Piazza del Campo, is regarded as one of Europe’s greatest medieval squares for its beauty and architectural integrity. Any hotel that attracts you in its vicinity will work for your three nights here. A notable favorite is the  Palazzetto Rosso, an artfully renovated 13th century building on Villa de Rossi, a few steps away from the Campo. This friendly boutique hotel features contemporary design furnishings remarkably well integrated within the ancient structure, and spectacular views of the 17th century Baroque dome of the Santa Maria in Provenzano Church.

Days One and Two

The Piazza del Campo is the historic heart of the city.

Siena is a compact, easy to visit small town where the major sites are all within an easy walk from each other. With half a day on the day of your arrival plus one full day you can explore the best of Siena, enjoy leisurely cafe-terrace breaks and wander the city at sunset when the buildings take on a golden glow; then have time enough for a day-trip to the peerless countryside of the Val d’Orcia.

Palazzo Pubblico

Detail of the Allergory of Good Government fresco – Ambrogio Lorenzetti (1338-1339).

Dominating the Piazza del Campo, the early Gothic-style Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) was built in the late 13th century as the seat of the Republic of Siena’s government. Every major room in the palace features remarkable frescoes, unusual for their time in that they were commissioned by the secular governing body of the city. Hence, they mainly depict secular subjects instead of the religious themes that were the norm in Italian art of the era. The most remarkable are three panels of the series on government in the Sala della Pace (a.k.a Hall of the Nine), collectively known as The Allegory of Good and Bad Government.

Torre del Mangia

The Torre del Mangia dominates the Palazzo Pubblico.

Soaring from a corner of the Palazzo Pubblico, its elegant bell tower,  the 87-meter high (285 feet) Torre del Mangia is one of the tallest secular medieval towers remaining in Italy. Built between 1338 and 1348, of bricks topped with a stone cornice and belfry, it takes its name from its first bell-ringer, a spendthrift known by the nickname Mangiaguadagni (earning eater) abbreviated to Mangia. It is over 300 steps to the top but the reward is well worth the effort, not only for the unique bird’s eye view of the Campo below but also to behold the legendary hills of Tuscany to the horizon. 

Fonte Gaia

The Fonte de Gaia was designed by Jacopo della Quercia (marble, circa 1419).

Back at Campo level, feast your eyes on the Fonte Gaia, (Fountain of the Bride), the monumental early 14th century fountain decorated with marble panels sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia. The first  fountain to bring water to the square (by underground pipes from 25 kilometers or 15 miles away), it was was dedicated to the “Bride of God” and patron of Siena, the Virgin Mary. However, the subjects on its planels and statues combine Roman matrons’ cardinal virtues with a central relief of the Madonna and Child, curiously framed by stories of Genesis. 

Santa Maria Assunta

The Siena Cathedral’s exterior is clad in white Prato marble.

It’s a mere five-minute walk from the Palazzo Pubblico to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, one of Italy’s most famous Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals for its  facade of white marble with the red and green veins, and its unique interior of black and white marble inlays and graffito floors that merely servie as a backdrop for its superb stain glass windows and its abundance of other remarkable artworks.

Piccolomini Library

The liibrary is a treasure trove of ancient manuscripts.

Within the Duomo complex, the Piccolomini Library is a not-to-be-missed masterpiece, not only for its brilliantly frescoed walls but for its exceptional collection of 15th and 16th century illuminated manuscripts, considered one of  the richest in Europe.

The Baptistery

The baptisery features an elaboratel vaulted ceiling.

Contrary to other Italian cathedrals of the era, which required that the baptistery be located outside the church, at Santa Maria Assunta it is located at the rear of cathedral. It is noted  for its superb frescoes by renowned artists and its lovely baptismal font. Well worth a walk through before exiting the church.

The Cathedral Museum

Detail of the rose window of the cathedral.

The museum is a repository for some of the most precious original works of art that were created for the Siena Cathedral, among them the eye-popping the stained-glass Rose Window by Duccio di Buoninsegna and the Treasury. The visit offers a unique opportunity to get close to the original stain glass windows and other original works, while their exact replicas  can only be seen from afar in situ inside the cathedral.

Santa Maria della Scala

Santa Maria della Scala features several frescoed chapels.

Located across the street from the cathedral, Santa Maria della Scala was one of Europe’s first hospitals (founded in 898 AD). It was enlarged over the centuries into an enormous complex, most of which is now a museum featuring  numerous chapels, a series of 14th century frescoes depicting the Life of the Virgin, famous altarpieces, and more. It also holds  the original marble sculptures and panels from the Fonte Gaia.

Day Three — Val d’Orcia

Val d’Orcia vista.

Just south of Siena, the picture-perfect Val d’Orcia is a unique example of how the natural environment was manipulated and redesigned by man to express the Renaissance ideals of good governance and utopian landscaping. Here vineyards and olive groves climb up sun-baked hills toward ancient fortified villages, and country lanes lined with arrow-straight black cypresses meander across rolling meadows toward apricot-colored farmsteads.  

Montalcino

Brunello vineyards reach surround Montalcino.

A delightful hilltop village that traces its winemaking tradition to the 14th century, Montalcino is considered by oenophiles as Tuscany’s ultimate destination. It offers a commanding view of rolling hills streaked to the horizon with the vineyards that produce some of Italy’s most prestigious reds, the Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino.

San’ Antimo

The remote San’Antimo church is surrounded by ancient cypress and olive trees

Another Val d’Orcia gem, San’ Antimo was built in the early 12th century in a remote pastoral setting of ancient cypress and olive trees. It is reputed to be one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy.

To make the most of your Val d’Orcia experience, consider booking a day-long private tour with a driver-guide. Out of Siena, there are literally dozens such offerings for you to choose from. On their recent visit, my friends used Montalcino Wine Tours and declared themselves delighted with the experience, which included two private winery visits and wine tastings, a sumptuous lunch at a local farm  and several “photo stops” at sites of interest.

Good to Know

• Getting There — There is equally convenient  bus and train service linking the center of Florence to Siena, leaving approximately every hour throughout the day and taking about the same time (75 to 90 minutes). However, if you are open to a new experience. take Bus #131R, the express/non stop bus linking the two cities . Why? In Siena the train station is located a mile and half uphill walk from historic center, whereas the bus arrives at Piazza Gramsci/Viale Tozzi, on top of the hill and a very short walk from it.
• Returning to Rome — There are no direct trains from Siena to Rome – all will require a connection, most often through Florence. However there are direct express busses (Flexbus) throughout the day that will get you from Siena to the Rome in under three hours.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!