Florence

Experiencing Italy — A First-Timer’s Itinerary — Florence

13 October 2024 | Europe, Italy, Journeys, Places | 0 comments

Days Six to Eight of your Italian Adventure — Leave Venice in the morning, It’s a three-hour train ride from Santa Lucia station to Florence Santa Maria Novella, which gets you there in the middle of the day.

The Land of the Medici

The Medici emblem decorates buildings throughout Florence.

Although Florence has a long history dating back to the Etruscan-Roman period, it was not until the 15th century that the capital of the Tuscan region earned its renown as the Cradle of the Renaissance. This reputation is mainly due to one powerful family: the Medici, a dynasty that began with the founding of the Medici Bank in 1397. It was to dominate the Florentine political life for three centuries; and shape Florence into one of Europe’s major artistic, and cultural centers.

Where to Stay?

The Palazzo Vecchio is the iconic image of medieval Florence.

Florence is a compact, easily walkable city that developed within the protection of its medieval walls, now gone except for some of its monumental towers. Everything you’ll want to see is within a mile from everything else, and it’s packed with tourists. For a convenient location in the heart of this historic center yet away from the frenzy, consider the area around the Piazza Santissima Annunziata (a 15-minute walk from the train station). There are accommodations of all types available in the immediate neighborhood. Most notably, the Loggiatto dei Serviti is an excellent hotel right on the eastern side of the piazza. Located in a fully renovated 15th century convent, the property consistently gets high marks for its understated elegance, impeccable comfort and superb service.

First Impressions

The porticoed facades were designed by Fillipo Brunelleschi..

Start off by taking in the exquisite harmony of the porticoes surrounding three sides of the Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Right across from the hotel, note the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), Europe’s first orphanage, with its Della Robbia medallions. The north side of the piazza is defined by the Basilica della Santissima Annunziata (Basilica of the Most Holy Annunciation). Then head south, past the huge equestrian bronze statue of Ferdinando I de’ Medici (circa 1608) to the Via dei Servi, toward the cupola of the Duomo.

Santa Maria del Fiore

The Duomo if entirely clad in pink, green and wihite marble.

The Cathedral Santa Maria of the Flowers (a.k.a the Duomo) is one of the largest churches in the world. With its outside entirely decorated with green, pink and white marble panels, and its soaring octagonal dome by Filippo Brunelleschi the largest brick and mortar dome in the word (114.5 m or 375.7 ft high and 45.5 m or 149 ft in diameter), it is also one of the most spectacular. A few steps farther, the matching marble-clad octagonal Baptistery with its three sets of elaborately sculpted bronze doors, is also a unique work of art.

Keep walking toward the river and the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), the iconic covered bridge that has been straddling the Arno since 1345. Along the way you will get a first look at most of the “guide book musts”, so you can decide which ones you’ll want to explore further.

Piazza della Signoria

the Piazza della Signoria has been the political heart of Florence since medieval times.

The political heart of Florence since the Middle Ages, the vast expanse of the Piazza della Signoria (Square of the Rulers) remains to this day the city’s most significant gathering place for locals and tourists alike. Find yourself a table at the terrace of the historic Caffé Rivoire. A local institution since 1872, it boasts a panoramic view of the monolithic silhouette of the Palazzo Vecchio, its entrance marked by the colossal white marble statue of David by Michelangelo (Actually it’s an exact copy, the original having been moved indoor to the Galleria dell’Accademia in 1873). Then, on the side adjoining the Uffizi Gallery, the elegant Loggia dei Lanzi showcases a stunning open air collection of ancient and Renaissance statuary.

The Uffizi Gallery

The cortile (internal courtyard) of the Uffizi is open to the Arno.

If you ever entertained the idea to overindulge on Renaissance art, a visit to the Uffizi (Offices) is for you! Originally commissioned by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1560 to consolidate his governing power, the building was intended to accommodate in one central place the various administrative bodies of the city, hence the name of Offices. The top floor was made into a gallery to house the rich Medici collection of Roman sculptures. After the House of Medici died out in 1743, the last heiress bequeathed their entire art collections to the city of Florence. The Uffizi was officially opened to the public in 1769. One of the most important museums in Italy, it is world-renowned for its collection of priceless works, particularly from the period of the Italian Renaissance.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio is a fortified medievial fortress.

The massive medieval structure with its 94m (308ft) tower, was built in the 13th century, as the seat of government of the Republic. In these turbulent times when the frequent power conflicts tended to end in violence, it also needed to be secure and defensible. The Palazzo della Signoria (Palace of the Rulers), as it was then called, retained its original function until 1540, when Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici ordered a restructuring and decoration of the building to make it his residence. It acquired its present appearance and became the Palazzo Ducale (Ducal Palace). It was renamed Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace) when Cosimo I later moved his residence across the Arno to the Pitti Palace.

The Renaissance courtyards were designed by Giorgio Vasari.

The Palazzo Vecchio is an intriguing place to visit. In addition to its elegant courtyards, it is filled with beautifully frescoed rooms, private apartments, secret passages and the legendary Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of the Five Hundred), intended hold the 500 members the Consiglio Maggiore (Grand Council). Decorated by Vasari, it is reflection of the boundless ambition of Cosimo I. Here, all the paintings and frescoes are about celebrating the victories of the new Duke as he conquers every city in Tuscany.

Basilica di Santa Croce

Giovani Cimabue – Crucifix (circa 1287). Basilica di Santa Croce.

Another absolute must, just a 10-minute walk from the Duomo, the Basilica of the Holy Cross is the principal Franciscan church in Florence. It houses the burial chapels of some of the most illustrious figures of the Renaissance, including Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli, as well as 19th century musical great Giacomo Rossini. It is also home to the incandescent Giotto polychrome altarpiece of the Coronation of the Virgin (circa 1328). The Neo-Gothic marble façade was added in the mid-19th century.

Local Atmosphere

Trattoria da Rocco is a popular feature of the Mercato..

Another few minutes’ walk takes you off the usual tourist track to the lively Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood, at the eastern end of the historic center. The Mercato Sant’Ambrogio, the oldest market in Florence has been the go-to spot for neighborhood shoppers since 1883, for meats, cheeses, fish and fresh produce as well as household goods and basic clothing. At the center of it, the popular Da Rocco trattoria is overflowing with Tuscan specialties and a great place for a casual lunch.

Take a gelato break at Vivoli..

Another Florence not-to-be-missed tradition, just a stone’s throw from Santa Croce, is a gelato break at Vivoli where, since 1929, four generations of the Vivoli family have been creating all natural homemade ice cream with high quality ingredients produced on the family farm.

Across the River

The Ponte Vecchio -view from the upper floor of the Uffizi.,

At some point during your stay, you’ll want to reserve at least half a day to explore the Oltrarno (quite literally the other side of the Arno). Developed outside the city’s walls, the Oltrarno was from the start a neighborhood of artisans, especially fullers, dyers and tanners who needed water from the river. Other trades followed, and their legacy lives on, along the narrow streets lined with shops where the last traditional Florentine craftspeople carry on. They are the engravers, gilders, enamelers and restorers of fine antiques. Other still bind books, make marbled paper and fine hand-made leather goods.

Early Renaissance Landmarks

Details of frescoes by Masolino and Masaccio (circa 1427).

Wander to the Basilica di Santo Spirito (Basilica of the Holy Spirit). It’s interior is one of the purest examples of early Renaissance architecture in Florence. Then continue on to the Church of San Fedriano. It is slightly out of the way but it is home to the Brancacci Chapel, with its ground-breaking cycle of frescoes by Masolino and Masaccio (circa 1427). They were the first to embrace perspective and light to create a realistic human dimension, and open the way for future generations of artists.

Palazzo Pitti

Florence skyline view from the terraces of the Palazzo Pitti.

Purchased in 1550, the Palace was chosen by Cosimo I de’ Medici and his wife Eleanor of Toledo as the new Grand Ducal residence. To that end, it was expended into the sprawling 32,000 square meter (eight-acre) residence that we know today, Eleonora also oversaw the addition of the sumptuous amphitheater-shaped Boboli Gardens at the rear of the palace.

Boboli Gardens – Fountain of Neptune.

For the next two centuries, the palace remained the primary residence of the Grand Dukes and the symbol of the Medici’s power over Tuscany. It also became an unimaginable treasure trove as the family accumulated artworks, jewels, china and furniture. Today is it the largest museum complex in Florence, with a rich collection spanning six centuries and including dedicated silver, porcelain, costume and carriage museums as well as painting and sculpture galleries.

The gardens have become an outdoor sculpture museum that includes roman antiquities as well as Renaissance works.

Panoramic view of the Ponte Vecchio

Good to Know

Visiting — Throughout the peak tourist season (especially June to October) long lines can plague the most popular sights in Florence. To make the most of your time in the city, plan well ahead by consulting the official website of the ticket office of the Florentine state museums and purchasing advanced tickets.
Churches — All the churches mentioned in this story are active places of catholic worship. They are typically open to visitors Monday through Saturday during the day and only at restricted hours on Sunday. Opening hours vary based on the schedule of religious services. Detailed information is usually provided on their official website. There is no charge to enter churches but there is a charge for specific additional visits such as the dome of the Duomo, adjoining cloisters or frescoed chapels. Note — There is a dress code to enter all churches in Italy. Both men and women are required to cover their knees and upper arms. This prohibits wearing shorts or skirts above the knee, sleeveless tops and low-cut shirts.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

The Oltrarno – where ancient Florence lives on

6 April 2015 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

No visit to Florence feels complete without at least one foray into the narrow alleys of the Oltrarno. This area, located outside the city’s walls, on the oltr’Arno (literally the other side of the Arno), was from the start a working class neighborhood home to the manual trades, especially the fullers, dyers and tanners that needed water from the river. Other artisans followed, pushed outward by the expansion of the medieval city. Today their artistic legacy lives on in myriad small shops where the last of traditional Florentine craftspeople carry on their trade. They are the picture framers, gilders, engravers, enamelers and restorers of fine antiques. They still bind books, make marbled paper and fine hand-made leather goods.

An embarrassment of bridges

Tuscany - Florence. Oltrarno San Frediano Church.

The Baroque cupola of San Frediano refects in the Arno.

Three of the six bridges of Florence directly link the centro storico to the heart of the Oltrarno. The famed Ponte Vecchio, built at the narrowest point of the river. is now a pedestrian passage jammed with tourists. As was common a millennium ago, it is still lined on both sides with small shops. In keeping with a sixteenth century edict from the then Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo I, the entire bridge is dedicated to the jewelry trade, but the gold and silversmiths are long gone. These days it has become a garish strip mall of brightly lit storefronts dripping with gold items manufactured around the world. I avoid it in favor of the next two down river bridges. I occasionally I use the Ponte della Carraia about 500 meters (a third of a mile) downstream, for a close look at the Baroque cupola. of the Frediano church in the river. But most often, I take the Ponte Santa Trinita, located halfway between the two others. From there, I can enjoy the Ponte Vecchio and the ancient architecture of the Oltrarno riverfront at their photogenic best.

Bernardo Buontalenti’s Fontana dello Sprone stands guard in corner of Piazza Frescobaldi.

Besides its spectacular views, the Ponte Santa Trinita has the added attraction of leading me straight to Gelato Santa Trinita, one of my favorite gelateria in the city for its wide choice of decadently rich, freshly made ice creams and its reasonable prices. It is located at the corner Ponte Santa Trinita and Piazza Frescobaldi. Then, just a few steps away, the far left corner of the tiny piazza is guarded by a favorite Oltrarno landmarks, the striking sixteenth century fountain by Bernardo Buontalenti where water spouts from a grotesque marble mask into an elaborately carved inverted cone basin. Commonly known as la Fontana dello Sprone (the fountain at the corner) it sits at the sharp corner where two ancient streets, Borgo San Jacopo and Via dello Sprone intersect. High on the wall above it, the unmistakable oval white marble shield adorned with six balls reminds passers-by that even this working class neighborhood is Medici country.

The ultimate Medici repository

Palazzo Pitti Boboli Gardens.

The Palazzo Pitti’s Boboli Gardens.

Palazzo Pitti. Follow either of these streets, and a ten-minute walk later this is extravagantly confirmed when they open onto the rambling Palazzo Pitti, originally built in the mid-fifteenth century as the residence of the powerful banker Luca Pitti, friend of Cosimo de’ Medici (or Cosimo the Elder, 1389-1464). A century later his descendent Cosimo I de’ Medici purchased the palace from the Pitti family and expended it into the grand 32,000 square meter (eight acre) residence that we know today. His wife Eleonora do Toledo oversaw the addition of the sumptuous amphitheatre-shaped Boboli Gardens at the rear of the palace.

For the next two centuries, the palace was the primary residence of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. It became an unimaginable treasure trove as the family accumulated a wealth of artworks, jewels, china and furniture. Today is it the largest museum complex in Florence, with a rich collection spanning six centuries and including dedicated silver, porcelain, costume and carriage museums as well as painting and sculptures galleries. The gardens, enlarged in the seventeenth century to their present 45,000 square meter (11 acre) size have become an outdoor sculpture museum that includes roman antiquities as well as Renaissance works. It’s an ideal place for a serene al fresco escape from the crowds of the city on a sunny afternoon.

The Masaccio legacy

Tuscany - Oltrarno's Santa Maria del Carmine cloister.

The Brunelleschi cloister at Santa Maria del Carmine.

Early Renaissance Masaccio frescoes at the Brancacci Chapel.

Brancacci Chapel. The grandeur of the Palazzo Pitti and the charms of Boboli Gardens notwithstanding, my favorite Oltrarno destination lays a ten-minute walk north through the narrow alleys of the artisans quarters to the Piazza del Camine. At the edge of this quiet square stands the unassuming, semi-deserted church of Santa Maria del Carmine, part of a Carmelite convent with a graceful cloister designed by Brunelleschi. But mainly is it home to the Brancacci Chapel, built in 1386 for a wealthy local merchant, Pietro Brancacci. In 1425 his descendant Felice Brancacci commissioned frescoes depicting a cycle from the life of Saint Peter (the patron saint of the original owner of the chapel) from Early Renaissance master Masolino and his brilliant pupil Masaccio.

Their work marked a radical break from the medieval tradition of hierarchical representation (where the most important figures stood largest and most prominently placed) to embrace the nascent Renaissance use of perspective and light to create a realistic human dimension. Here the artists depicted biblical scenes that used the setting and likeness of their contemporaries. Theses magnificent frescoes are widely regarded as some of the most important work to come out of the Early Renaissance period. Many Renaissance artists, including the young Michelangelo, are known to have copied Masaccio’s works in the chapel as part of their artistic training.

Lo Sprone. No visit to the Oltrarno is considered complete until I have stopped for a meal at tiny Lo Sprone, predictably located on Via dello Sprone. An open kitchen area and seven wooden tables are shoehorned in this friendly hole-in-the-wall storefront where the two friendly owners alternate in the kitchen and dining area to dish out simple, delicious local fare against a background of Opera arias. The pasta dishes of the day and seasonal salads are prepared on demand as is the only constant on the limited menu, a generous meat and cheese board. Good Tuscan wine is served by the glass. And best of all, the prices too are tiny.

Next I am setting out beyond Florence and explore the back roads of Tuscany. Until then, Ciao!

A Few Souvenirs

Tuscany - Oltrarno. Cloister at Santa Maria del Carmine.

Tuscany - Oltrarno Boboli Neptune Fountain.

Location, location, location!

Oltrarno, florence, Tuscany

Everyday life amid Renaissance wonders

15 March 2015 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

To wander around Florence, the historic city nestled in the Tuscan hills along the banks of the Arno River, is to walk back in time to the birthplace of modern western culture. The Renaissance began here, in the maze of narrow streets lined with the palazzos and monasteries of the old town. Their façades look like stark fortresses. They were, after all, intended to keep invaders at bay. But step through their foreboding, metal studded gates and a world of serene gardens, elegant cloisters and inexhaustible treasures await. Or keep following the cobblestone labyrinth and it will invariably open onto a harmonious piazza dominated by a magnificent church.

Beyond the guidebook musts

The guidebook “musts” have been so often photographed and filmed they seem familiar at first glance. Like millions of other visitors from around the world, I paid them their due years ago on my first visit. Then they became the backdrop of everyday life, convenient landmarks as I set out to discover new personal favorites each time I contrive a reason to find my way back to Tuscany.

The cloistered courtyard of the Bargello is an ideal spot for a quiet moment right in the center of the city.

Tuscany - Florence. Della Robia Collection.

The Bargello features an extensive collection of Della Robia glazed terracottas.

Bargello. Built in the mid-thirteen century as the residence of the Podestà, the highest magistrate of the Florence City Council, this small medieval fortress is the oldest public building in Florence. Later turned prison and barracks, it became a national museum in 1865. The Bargello features a spectacular display of glazed terracotta works by the brothers Della Robia, along with works by Michelangelo and other prominent Renaissance sculptors. And it is home to the “first David”. Donatello’s one and a half meter (five foot) bronze of David (circa 1440’s), commissioned by Cosimo the Elder de’ Medici for the courtyard of his own palace and the first known nude statue created since antiquity. It set the stage for another world-class nude David: Michelangelo’s 17 foot (5.20 meter) white Carrara marble masterpiece. In addition to revisiting these favorites, I always enjoy lingering along the open loggia and under the arches of the cloistered courtyard to spend a quiet al fresco moment right in the center of the city.

Museum of San Marco This twelfth century Dominican monastery adjacent to the San Marco church was restored by Cosimo the Elder de’ Medici in 1440, who entrusted the work to his favorite architect Michelozzo. With its elegant cloister and spacious sun-filled library, the building offers a superb example of Renaissance conventual architecture. Of special interest are the perfectly preserved Fra’ Angelico frescoes that decorate the cloister, refectory and the brothers’ cells. Additionally, the library, the first public library in Europe, contains a stunning collection of elaborately illuminated manuscripts, many of them donated by Cosimo himself.

Tuscany - Florence. Cloister of the Scalzo.

Andrea Del Sarto chiaroscuro frescoes at the Cloister of the Scalzo.

Cloister of the Scalzo. Just one block from the Piazza San Marco on the Via Cavour, tucked away beyond an unassuming Renaissance doorway, this exquisite cloister once led to a chapel that was part of a much larger religious complex owned by the Confraternity of St. John the Baptist. The small rectangular space contains twelve frescoes in chiaroscuro (grayscale) representing the life of Saint John the Baptist. Entry is free and opening hours are limited to a few mornings a week. This cloister appears to be one of the best kept secrets in Florence. I drop in whenever possible and it is not unusual to find I have the place to myself.

Tuscany - Florence. Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Michelozzo’s Courtyard of the Columns in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Benozzo Gozzoli’s frescoes in the Chapel of the Magi at the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi A five-minute walk farther down Via Cavour to the corner of Via de’ Gori, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi is the antithesis of the intimate Scalzo. Designed by Michelozzo in 1444 for the Medici family, it was acquired two centuries later by the Riccardi family who undertook extensive transformations. Mercifully, the grand interior Courtyard of the Columns along with the Cappella di Benozzo Gozzoli (Chapel of the agi) survived with their Renaissance grace untouched. In the courtyard (where the aforementioned Donatello’s David once stood), a broad colonnade runs around the square perimeter of the building, supporting twelve soaring arches surmounted by a festooned frieze. The festoons link twelve medallions featuring the Medici arms alternated with reliefs of mythological subjects. But the jewel of the palace is its exquisite chapel, with its walls entirely frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli. The central theme is the adoration of the Magi. The subjects are said to be portraits of the Medici family, with Cosimo’s son Piero, along with Byzantine emperor John VIII Palaiologos and Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of Luxembourg riding along the Tuscan countryside as the Three Wise Men.

A foodie’s reward

Tuscany - Florence. Robiglio pastry shop.

Robiglio’s espressos and pastries have been a Florence institution since1928 .

All this roaming around artistic treasures requires sustenance, another commodity in abundance in Florence. Just like generations of Fiorentini before me, I like to start my day with a stop at the classic marble counter of Robiglio for one of their superb espressos. Opened in 1928 in the Via dei Servi, the busy narrow street that links the Piazza della Santissima Annonziata to the rear of the Duomo, this old-fashion pasticceria offers a mind-boggling choice of freshly baked local pastries along with its ambrosial coffees.

After a day of shopping and sightseeing, the two seem to invariably go together in this artistic and fashion-conscious city, I often head for Rivoire on Piazza de la Signoria. Tourists and elegant local ladies alike have been congregating there since 1872 to enjoy a cup of sumptuous hot chocolate, a spectacular view of the Palazzo Vecchio and the jumble of ancient sculptures of the Loggia dei Lanzi across the piazza.

With its sumptuous hot chocolate, Rivoire offers a spectacular view of the Loggia dei Lanzi.

For lunch, high on my list of favorite spots is La Pentola del Oro (Pot of gold) at the corner of Via di Mezzo and Via dei Pepi in the Santa Croce neighborhood. The area that has kept a genuine local feel as few tourists seem to venture too far east of the Piazza Santa Croce. This bustling neighborhood restaurant dishes out excellent traditional Tuscan fare to a lively crowd of mainly local patrons. Some of their recipes are said to hark back to medieval times. My favorite is the Lasagnole (ribbon-shaped noodles) with a walnut, ginger and chestnut honey sauce.

Tuscany - Florence's San'Ambrogio Market.

Trattoria Rocco’s simple home-cooked food is hugely popular with San’Ambrogio Market shoppers.

Not far from there, I never miss a chance to visit the San’Ambrogio Market. Open every day until early afternoon, the large covered market is filled with colorful food stalls. It is surrounded by a tented area where merchants offer everything from clothing to cookware, paper goods and sewing, knitting and jewelry-making necessities. And in the heart of the indoor market, the hugely popular Trattoria Rocco is usually surrounded by a line of hungry shoppers waiting expectantly for seats to free up at one of the communal tables. The simple home-cooked food is delicious, the prices are easy, the portions more than generous and the caramelized baked pears irresistible.

Next we’ll cross the Arno for a visit to the artisans’ neighborhood of the Oltrarno. Until then, Ciao!

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Florence, Italy.

Florence – Cradle of the Renaissance

2 February 2015 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

Florence, the regional capital of Tuscany and widely acknowledged cradle of the Renaissance, owes its splendor and unique influence on the development of the western world in great part to the dominant ruling family of the period: the Medici. Starting in the mid-fourteenth century, their far-reaching patronage of the arts left an indelible mark on the city. The emulation it encouraged in other powerful families created an environment where artists could thrive. The evolution of this profound architectural and artistic movement that was to shape Europe over the next two centuries can be appreciated here like nowhere else.

The daily tidal wave

Understandably, the city attracts close to ten million visitors per year. Each morning, a tide of tourists from around the world floods the narrow cobbled streets of the historic center in the wake of efficient guides that shepherd them along an established itinerary of the most iconic landmarks before receding at nightfall toward their next destination. “They start at the Ponte Vecchio,” a Florentine friend once lamented, “on a one and a half kilometer march that takes them by the Uffizzi, the Piazza della Signoria, Palazzo Vecchio and Duomo to end at the Galleria dell’ Accademia for a look at Michelangelo’s David. Work in time for lunch and a gelato break, and if the group has sufficient stamina a quick detour by Santa Croce or the Piazza della Santissima Annunziata for glimpse at the Brunnelleschi arches and ecco, they have seen Florence.” And, she added with a hint of regret, “they have missed most of it.”

Yet we both agreed that although it barely scratches the surface of its treasures, this guidebook itinerary provides a good introduction to the historic and cultural past of the city that shaped the evolution of Europe.

A good place to start

The Vassari Corridor runs above the Ponte Vecchio to the Uffizi Galleria

The Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence, spans the Arno at its narrowest point. While it is believed there has been a succession of bridges in that spot since Roman times, the current structure lined with shops as was customary then, dates back to the early fourteenth century. But for me its most intriguing feature sits above the row of garish jewelry storefronts that run the length of the bridge. It is the enclosed private corridor commissioned in 1565 by Cosimo I de’ Medici to connect the Palazzo Vecchio, then seat of the ruling body of the Republic of Florence, with the Palazzo Pitti, his own residence immediately across the river. Designed by Giorgio Vasari, it is a stark reminder of a time when assassination was considered an expedient way to solve political differences.

Tuscany - Florence, Palazzo Vecchio shields.

The Terrace of the Uffizi offers a close up view of the Palazzo Vecchio.

La Basillica Santa Maria Del Fiore is best known as the Duomo for its striking Brunelleschi dome.

The Uffizi Gallery Built in the mid-sixteenth century for Cosimo I de’ Medici to house magistrates, administrative offices and state archives, the Palazzo degli Uffizi (Italian for offices) is located between the Arno and the Palazzo Vecchio. The third floor holds a mind-boggling collection illustrating the evolution of Italian art, displayed chronologically from Gothic to late Renaissance and beyond, in rooms opening onto a large gallery that runs the length of the building. The gallery is lined with antique marble statues. It also offers a superb view of the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno. The rooftop terrace coffee shop is worth a visit for its close up view of the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and the dome of the Duomo.

The interior courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio.

Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio. The political center of the city since medieval times, the Palazzo Vecchio opens onto the Piazza della Signoria (or Government Square), which remains to this day one of Florence’s most famous and busiest squares. The visit of the Palazzo Vecchio includes the elegant private apartments as well as the internal courtyard and the grand public rooms with their frescoed walls and elaborate coffered ceilings to give an interesting insight into the life of the aristocracy of the time.

La Galleria dell’ Academia is part of the Academy of Fine Arts of Florence. A number of Michelangelo’s masterpieces are displayed here, including his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and his world-famous 5.20 meter (17 foot) white Carrara marble statue of David. Originally set on the Piazza della Signoria, the David was moved in the nineteenth century to a specially constructed gallery in the Accademia. A copy now stands in its place outside the Palazzo Vecchio. The remainder of the art collection, mainly works from the Gothic and early Renaissance periods, was originally assembled to educate students.

The Duomo and the Giotto’s Bell tower are faced with elaborate marble panels.

Duomo The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore or Duomo is one of the largest churches in Italy and one of the major tourist attractions in Tuscany. The exterior is faced with white marble panels outlined in green and pink. Started in 1296 in the Gothic style, it was completed in 1436 with addition of the Brunelleschi dome, which remains today the largest brick and mortar dome in the world. The façade was left bare until the nineteenth century when it acquired its elaborate Gothic Revival marble design.

The Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents or Foundling Hospital) on the Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, just a short walk behind the Duomo, was Fillipo Brunelleschi’s first architectural commission. Its gracious loggia of nine semi-circular arches facing the piazza set the stage for the development of an architectural style based on classical antiquity.

Tuscany - Florence. Santa Croche Basillica,

The Santa Croce Basillica has a nineteenth century Gothic Revival marble facade.

La Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross) is the principal Franciscan church in Florence. Located on the Piazza di Santa Croce, about half a mile south-east of the Duomo, it houses the burial chapels of some of the most illustrious figures of the Renaissance, including Galileo, Michelangelo and Machiavelli, as well as nineteenth century musical great Gioachino Rossini. It acquired its Gothic Revival marble façade in the nineteenth century.

Tuscany - Florence. Giotto Coronation of the Virgin.

The incandescent Giotto polychrome Coronation of the Virgin in the Santa Croche Basillica.

While I enjoyed these “guidebook musts” on my first visit to Florence, I also developed a yearning to return. Florence has become a frequent destination for me in recent years. Along the way, I have discovered my own personal favorites among the less frequented architectural and artistic gems as well neighborhood markets and local eateries. I’ll share these next. Stay tuned for the sequel.