Denmark — The Exceptional Museums of Copenhagen

Denmark — The Exceptional Museums of Copenhagen

21 September 2026 | Denmark, Europe, Places | 0 comments

Beyond its iconic canals lined with colorful medieval houses, its world renowned Tivoli Garden entertainment park and historic royal residences, Copenhagen is also home to some exceptional museums. 

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Founded in 1888 by Carl Jacobsen, the scion of the Carlsberg brewing empire, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is a stunning museum housing over 10,000 works focused especially on early Mediterranean antiquities and 19th century French art. A passionate collector, Jacobson bequeathed his Impressionist collection to the public in 1882, and built the Glyptotek to house it. Then in 1899, he donated his collection of antiquities, which led to  the opening of a whole extra wing.

Roman child sarcophagus (circa 150 AD in the winter garden.

From the onset, Jacobson intended the Glyptotek to be a retreat where visitors could escape the outside world and simply enjoy the beauty and aesthetics of art. To this end, the entrance of the museum is through a peaceful winter garden under a soaring glass dome, leading into a maze of marble statues and sculptures. All of the galleries were thoroughly renovated a couple decades ago  and the Glyplotek remains to this day a haven of tranquility and a favorite retreat from the sometimes less than idyllic Copenhagen weather.

The Ancient Mediterranean

The central hall showcases a Roman marble colonnade.

The recently restored  galleries  of the antiquities wing dazzle with works ranging from the early cultures of the Middle East to the fall of the Roman Empire. The collection of Roman artefacts showcases ancient marble sculptures and statues gathered from sites across the Roman world, covering everything from 600 BC to 500 AD. It includes finds from important Roman villas as well as a rich selection of funeral artefacts from the Roman city of Palmyra in current days Syria. It includes remarkable funerary busts and grave stones, and is considered one of the largest such collections outside the country

The French Impressionists

A vast gallery is dedicated to French Impressionists.

The wealth of Impressionist works assembled by Jacobson is equally dazzling, with a large gallery dedicated to works by Monet, Sisley, Degas, van Gogh, Cézanne and many others. The Glyptotek has one of the three existing complete sets of Degas’ bronze sculptures,  and the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of Paris, including monumental bronze casts.

 

 

National Museum of Denmark

The Trundholm Sun Chariot is a late Nordic Bronze Age artifact.

Housed in an 18th  century royal mansion in central Copenhagen the Nationalmuseet (or National Museum of Denmark, is the country’s largest repository of its cultural history. One of its most compelling attraction is the huge Danish Prehistory Collection.  Located on the ground floor, multiple rooms arranged around a central courtyard immerse the visitors in the country’s history. Spanning roughly 9,000 years of human activity, it ranges fromfrom Stone Age burial finds to treasures of the Viking era.

Falster Island bull elk skeleton.

Unique archaeological treasures include the Trundholm Sun Chariot (circa 1400 BC), the Egtved Girl grave (14th  century BC), the Gundestrup cauldron (2nd century BC), various burial goods from the Hoby chieftain’s grave (1st century AD), displays of bog bodies, and even the intact skeleton of a massive bull elk presumed to have sank into a peat bog on the island of Falster some 8,700 years ago.

 

The Viking Exhibition

Rune stones trace the long Viking history.

Eventually, you arrive at the Viking exhibition. At one time, Vikings controlled vast swathes of Europe, and extended their reach all the way to North America. A wall-sized map at the beginning of the exhibition shows how far their influence extended. Notable exhibits include a vast collection of rune stones, carved stones erected as memorials to powerful Viking figures. A number of them also illustrate the regions’s transition from Norse Paganism to Christianity.

The silver hoard for Terslev, Zealand, includes a vast number of coins of Arab origin.

Meanwhile, massive assortment of silver hordes and other buried wealth such as Arabic dirhams and coins minted in other distant trading hubs illustrate the far reaching  trading network of the Vikings. And the abundance of “status weapons”, finely crafted swords and scabbards richly inlaid in silver and gold stand as the ultimate symbol of these elite warriors.

 

 

Design Museum Denmark

The museum is housed in one of the finest 18th-century rococo building in the city.

Fast forward to the present. Great design is everywhere in Denmark. Danish Modern design began in the 1920’s and 30’s as a blend of traditional cabinetmaking, functionalism and human-centric ergonomics. It was pioneered by architect Kaare Klint, who founded the furniture department at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Art in 1924. He advocated matching furniture dimensions to the human body and focusing on simplicity and utility.

The Chair Tunnel showcases the evolution of Danish furniture design from the 1920s to the 1970s,

Danish Modern gained popularity in the Western World, became a style and quite literally a national brand.  The Designmuseum Danmark (Design Museum Denmark) explores how Danish designers have methodically worked with design processes and tells the story of the success behind Danish design.  The permanent exhibition takes visitors on a fascinating design journey from Klint’s ‘Room for a Woman’, over the iconic German Frankfurter kitchen, which illustrates both differences and similarities between Danish and European modernism, and the futuristic high-tech designs of the 1980s.  From furniture and ceramics to industrial design and textiles, the museum focuses on the creation of the most emblematic Danish design.

With its classic marble colonnade and large glass roof, the central hall of the Glyptotek is designed to evoke a Roman Forum.

Good to Know

The  NY Carlsberg Glyptotek is located at Dantes Plads 7, off Hans Christian Andersen’s Boulevard, in central Copenhagen, a 20 minute walk from Nyhavn. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with late-night hours to 9:00 PM on Thursday. It is closed on Monday and major holidays including December 24, 25 and 26, and January 1.

The National Museum of Denmark is located at Ny Vestergade 10, in central Copenhagen, near Frederiksholms Kanal and Christiansborg Palace, an easy 10 minute walk from the Glyptotek.  It is open daily April through October, and Tuesday through Sunday November through March, from 10:00 AM to 5:00 pm.  It is closed on December 24, 25 and 31, and January 1.

The Design Museum Denmark  is located at Bredgade 68 in central Copenhagen, within easy walking distance of from Amalienbord Palace and Nyhavn.  It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with late hours on Thursday to 8:00 pm. It is closed on December 24, 25 and 31, and January 1.

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Denmark — A First-Timer’s Introduction to Copenhagen

Denmark — A First-Timer’s Introduction to Copenhagen

1 August 2026 | Denmark, Europe, Places | 1 comment

A fishing village founded by the Vikings in the 10th century, Copenhagen prospered over the ensuing centuries to become the de facto capital of the Kingdom of Denmark. By the end of the 17th century, it had become one of the most significant trading hubs in northern Europe.  

Christianshavn retains the feel of a Dutch canal neighborhood.

With the coronation of Christian IV (a.k.a. the Builder King) in 1596, Copenhagen entered a golden age of strong economy and urban development. He commissioning landmarks such as Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower, and founded Christianshavn, a merchant and residential district inspired by Dutch canals. However, it is to one of his successors that we owe the city’s most iconic site.

 

Nyhavn

The colorful 17th century buildings  of Nyhavn are  especially popular with tourists.

Immediately upon coming to power in 1670, Christian V ordered the construction of Nyhavn (New Harbor), a 450-meter (1500 ft) long canal to serve as a gateway from the open sea to the center of the Copenhagen. For over 200 years thereafter, Nyhavn remained the hub of the city’s maritime trade. Ships unloaded their cargo, and fishermen their daily catch, merchants lived above their warehouses, sailors came and went. And the harbor was packed with vessels built for every kind of journey.

The Copenhagen Opera House was inaugurated in 2005.

Today, the colorful row of brightly painted 17th-century buildings lining the canal has become one the most photographed destinations of the city. With the many restaurants and cafés along its cobblestone streets, it is a great place to settle for a while, enjoy a local beer and smørrebrød (the traditional Danish open-face rye sandwich), and watch the world go by. Then top your Nyhavn experience with one of the hour-long canal tours departing from the docks for a laid-back look at some of the other popular sites such as the Amalienborg Palace, the Opera House, and The Little Mermaid.

The Little Mermaid

The Little Mermaid is eternally awaiting her Prince.

Named for the 1837 fairy tale by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, the bronze statue of The Little Mermaid has been a major tourist attraction since its unveiling in 1913. Longingly gazing at the shore from her rock at the edge of the water, this graceful little statue is a mere 1.25-meter (4 ft) tall. Yet it is considered one of the city’s most iconic landmarks,

She stands just off the Langeline Pier, a pleasant seaside promenade with views of ships and the harbor. However, her presence draws hordes of tourists,  especially in the middle of the day. All the more reason to favor the canal cruise option and meet her from the water.

Amalienborg Palace

Amalienborg is the winter residence of the Danish royal family.

Returning  from your canal tour, it’s an easy 10-minute walk from Nyhavn to the Amalienborg Palace.  Designed by the architect Nicolai Eigtved in the early 1750s, it is considered the most prestigious example of Rococo architecture in Denmark. It consists of four near identical palaces surrounding  an octagonal square punctuated by an equestrian statue of King Frederik V (1723-66), the founder of Amalienborg. Today, it is the winter residence of the Danish royal family.  

If you can time your visit to arrive shortly before noon you will be treated by the changing of the Royal Gard, as they march at 12:00 sharp every day from their nearby barracks to Amalienborg Square.

The Round Tower

The spiral ramp allowed horse-drawn carts to drive up the tower.

Completed in 1642 as an astronomical observatory, the 35-meter (114 ft) high Rundetårn (Round Tower) is considered the oldest functioning observatory building in Europe, and still widely used today by amateur astronomers.  On the floor below the observatory, the Library Hall originally accommodated the University of Copenhagen book collection — hence the unusual spiral access ramp in lieu of stairs, designed to facilitate the delivery of books to the library by horse-drawn carts.

Today the Library Hall houses temporary art exhibits  as well as concerts and other cultural events, and the open rooftop platform is an ideal spot to enjoy panoramic views of the city.

Tivoli Gardens

The Tivoli Gardens entrance is especially festive at night.

No introduction to Copenhagen is complete without at least a walk around the Tivoli Gardens.

Located in the very center of Copenhagen, Tivoli is one of the oldest operating amusement parks in the the world. Inaugurated on 15 August 1843, it has been a popular destination for entertainment and culture ever since, where rides, live music, restaurants and seasonal events invitingly blend together.

The Pantomine Theater is designed for open air performances.

From its beginning it included a variety of attractions: band stands, a theatre and other structures in the style of an imaginary Orient. More permanent buildings were added later. In 1874, the Chinese-style Pantomime Theatre replaced an older, smaller theatre, and the Japanese Pagoda was built in 1900. The Glass Hall, originally built in 1863 as a concert and assembly hall, was destroyed during World War II and replaced in 1946 by the current octagonal glass building by noted Danish architect Poul Henningsen.

The Dæmonen, roller coaster is a major Tivoli attraction.

The rides feature several family-friendly classic carousels and a Ferris Wheel. But for the high adrenaline sensation seekers,  there are two notable roller coasters.  The “Rutschebanen” is a classic wooden roller coaster (circa 1914). It is the second oldest one in the world and one of the few still in existence to require a brakeman sitting in the train to slow it down manually during the drops!  Then there is the intense Dæmonen, opened in 2004. A floorless steel roller that stands 28 meters (90 ft) tall with a 20-meter (66 ft) drop, it features three loops, including a full 360 degree one, and reaches speeds up to 77 kilometers (48 mi.) per hour!

View of the Copenhagen skyline from the Round Tower Observationy.

Good to Know

  • Getting there — Located on the Oresund Straits, the gateway connecting the North Sea to the Baltic, Copenhagen is easily accessible by plane, train and ferry. By plane — Copenhagen Airport  (CPH) is located just 8 kilometres (5 mi.)  from the city centre and is well-connected to over 183 destinations worldwide, including direct flights to most major European cities. By Train — There are train connections via Hamburg, Germany and Stockholm, Sweden. By Ferry — Copenhagen is also accessible by ferry with several ferry crossings operating from nearby countries such as Germany, Sweden and Norway.
  • Getting around —The city center is compact, flat and easily walkable. 
  • Visiting — Tivoli Gardens operates seasonally, with distinct opening periods throughout the year. The park typically opens for Easter, followed by its main summer season from late April to late September. It reopens for Halloween in October and again for the Christmas season from mid-November to early January, closing only on December 24. During open periods, Tivoli is open daily from 11:00 am to 10:00 or 11:00 pm, with extended hours until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

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The other face of the Republic of Genoa — Cinque Terre

The other face of the Republic of Genoa — Cinque Terre

15 February 2026 | Europe, Italy, Places | 2 comments

Riomaggiore clings to the sides of a narrow valley.

The rocky strip of Ligurian coast south of Genoa had been  dotted with small fishing villages since Antiquity. Then, in the 9th century A.D., the Saracens repeatedly ravaged the area. Local people took refuge high up the hills, where they turned the steep slopes into cultivated terraces held by dry stone walls. And they established the vineyards, olive and lemon groves, and the vegetable gardens that remain to this day.

By the 11th century, with the Republic of Genoa beginning to assert its control over the Ligurian coast, the local tribes moved back down to the sea and began settling the coastal villages.

Cinque Terre

The “Five Lands,” (Cinque Terre), Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, are a string of five historic villages clinging to a 12 kilometer ( 7.5 mile) stretch of the southern end of the rugged Ligurian shoreline.

The Aurora Tower still overlooks Monterosso al Mare.

With the Republic of Genoa consolidating its control over the coast through the 12th and 13th centuries, these small harbors became  strategic outposts that helped protect its maritime might. Residents erected watchtowers and fortifications to monitor maritime traffic, guard against pirate attacks and invasions by conflicting city-states (such as Pisa and Venice). Remnants of these fortifications can still be seen today.

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare is the largest of the five villages.

Closest to Genoa, about 75 kilometers (47 miles) from the center of town, Monterosso al Mare is the largest and one of the most popular of the five villages. More a small town than a village, it is divided into two parts: the historic  and the contemporary, linked by a short tunnel running under the 16th century Aurora Tower.  On the eastern side, the historic old town (Borgo Antico) is a maze of narrow, winding streets (carrugi) lined with colorful houses, tiny piazzas, and traditional shops.

The nave of the church of San Giovanni Battista is a fine example of Ligurian Gothic striped marble work.

Remarkable landmarks include the 13th century church of San Giovanni Battista. With its striking facade of alternating white and green marble stripes, it is a fine example of Ligurian Gothic style. Also of note is the Capuchin Monastery, established in 1618 on the hill of San Cristoforo. This complex includes the Church of San Francesco, a relatively well preserved convent with twelve friar cells, communal rooms and cloisters. It also features several artworks by important 17th  and 18th century artists, and a superb view of the Cinque Terre coast.

A small sheltered beach and charming harbor further enhance its medieval coastal village feel. In contrast, on the western side of the tunnel, the modern Fegina district is popular for its long sandy beach, the only one of the Cinque Terre, modern hotels, the train station and other recent facilities.

Vernazza

The circular tower of Castello Doria has been standing guard over Vernazza since the 13th century,

A mere 3 kilometers (2 miles)  south of Monterosso al Mare, its colorful neighbor Vernazza, is widely considered the most picturesque of the Cinque Terre. As the only one with a natural harbor, it became very early a hub for commerce with Genoa as well as other destinations.  As a result, Vernazza became the most prosperous of the villages, wielding both economic and political powers. This past wealth is still visible in the arcades, archways and balconies along its ancient streets, and the remains of its fortifications. On a promontory rising from the shore, the circular tower of the Castello Doria, once owned by the noble Genoese Doria family, remains a major landmark.

The octogonal bell tower of Santa Margarita d’Antiochia dominates the Piazza Marconi.

Today, the focal point of the village is its main square, the lively  Piazza Marconi, with its harbor-side eateries, colorful houses and picturesque fishing boats. And, overlooking the Piazza, you can’t miss the church of Santa Margarita d’Antiochia with its 40 meters (130 feet) high octagonal bell tower, constructed in 1318 in the Ligurian Gothic style.

 

Corniglia

Corniglia sits on a ledge high above the water.

Clinging to the rock face, 3.5 kilometers (2.1 miles) south of Vernazza, Corniglia is the only village not directly in contact with the sea.  Standing on a high rocky ledge intensively cultivated with vineyards, 100 meters ( 320 ft) above the sea, this little hamlet can only be reached by a 377 step staircase from the train station, or through the network of hiking trails that connect the five villages. The reward is a unique panoramic view of the Cinque Terre.

 

Manarola

Manarola is one of the most colorful villages of Cinque Terre,

It’s a relatively easy 2 kilometer (1.2  mile) walk from Corniglia to Manarola, along a path with spectacular gardens and sea views.

Built on a promontory some 70 meters (230 feet) above sea level, it is one of the most charming of the five villages. Dominated by stacks of multicolored houses clinging to the rock face, it is all steep narrow alleys leading to the sea. The tiny harbor is filled with the traditional brightly painted fishing boats. Known for its deep waters and abundance of fish, it is a popular swimming and snorkeling spot. The seafront is the perfect place to relax at a cafe terrace, enjoy a catch-of-the-day meal, and watch the occasional daring diver jump off the cliff.

Riomaggiore

The ancient houses of Riomaggiore cling to the valley walls.

The southern-most village of the Cinque Terre, just 1.7 kilometer (1.05 mile) from Manarola, Riomaggiore is a cascade of bright houses built into the sides of the narrow valley of the Rio Maggiore, the small seasonal stream, which gave it its name.

From the main street, via Colombo, countless sets of steps lead up to back alleys lined with narrow two and three-story houses. These ancient houses feature two entrances, one at the front, the other at the back, usually higher up, to give their inhabitants an escape route into the hills in case of pirate attacks. Stroll along the main street, Via Colombo, down to the small harbor  and the pebble beach located near the boats docking point. Or climb up to the upper part of the village to the  Church of San Giovanni Battista, with its northern part leaning into the hill. Originally built in the 14th century, its façade was reconstructed in Neo-Gothic style in 1870.

Good to Know

Getting there — By train: The most reliable access to the villages from either Genoa to the north or La Spezia to the south  is by train. The Cinque Terre Express trains run approximately  every 20 minutes from mid March to first week of November, and only once or twice an hour during winter months.

From the main train station in Genoa, Genova Porta Principe, there are Intercity and regional trains almost every hour directly to Levanto, Monterosso and La Spezia. The travel time is just over an hour. If your destination is Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola or Riomaggiore, you will need to transfer to the local Cinque Terre Express in Levanto. From there the train will stop at Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore and lastly La Spezia. Be aware that there are a lot of tunnels to pass through, so the views are limited and constantly interrupted. A Cinque Terre Train Card costs around 18 Euros for a one day pass with unlimited stops.   CAUTION—Make sure to validate your ticket at the green machine located in the stairs on the way to the platform each time you board the train or face a 50 Euro fine!

By Ferry: A regular ferry service between Monterosso and La Spezia runs from April 1st  to the end of October (contingent on weather and sea conditions). Frequency varies from approximately 10 daily in summer to 5 daily in the low season.  The ferry stops at all the villages except Corniglia, since it doesn’t have access to the water. It is a great way to appreciate the unique topography of the area and get an overall view of the villages.

On foot:  The famous coastal hiking path, the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue path), connects all the villages. However, inquire before setting out as rockslides may occasionally close parts of the trail. There is a fee to use the parts of the trail that are within the National Park of the Cinque Terre.  A one-day pass is around 8 Euros. 

Note —The tradition of painting the facades of the Cinque Terre villages in bright colors began centuries ago, (as they did on the island of Burano in the Venetian Lagoon), primarily to help fishermen identify their homes from the sea. Over time, this practice evolved into a cultural tradition, with each family selecting a distinct color for their house, thus creating the vibrant, multicolored landscapes seen today. By the 1970s, as tourism increased, locals recognized the aesthetic and cultural value of these colorful facades, leading to efforts to preserve and maintain them. 

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Cinque Terre, Italy

Exploring the Illustrious Maritime History of Genoa

Exploring the Illustrious Maritime History of Genoa

26 January 2026 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

A major Mediterranean port and city-state, the powerful Republic of Genoa dominated trade routes and naval commerce throughout the Middle Ages. Its harbor fostered shipbuilding, maritime trade and exploration, connecting it to markets across Europe, North Africa, and the Near East. Today, Genoa’s economy and culture remain closely linked to its port and maritime industries. 

La Lanterna di Genova

La Lanterna di Genova. has guided ships for 900 years.

The iconic lighthouse of Genoa (La Lanterna di Genova) is a beloved landmark and the symbol of Genoa’s rich maritime history. First built in 1128 and extensively restored in 1543, after the original tower was damaged by a storm, it is one of the oldest still operational lighthouses in the world. Standing at a height of 77 meters (253 feet), it has been a guiding light for ships entering the port for the past 900 years.

 

Palazzo San Giorgio

The frescoed Renaissance facade of the Palazzo San Giorgio dominates the Old Port.

At the edge of the Old Port (Porto Antico), the Palazzo San Giorgio has been overseeing the docks since the 13th century. Its blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and especially its façade adorned with vibrant frescoes, makes it a major focal point of the waterfront. And its checkered history is fascinating.

The Palazzo was commissioned in 1260 by Guglielmo Boccanegra, the then ruler of the city-state, to serve as the center of municipal authority. However, after Boccanegra’s political fall in 1262, his ambitious project floundered, and the palace was eventually repurposed as a prison. Famously, Marco Polo was held there after being captured by the Genoese during the Battle of Curzola in 1298. And this is where he dictated the tales of his travels across Asia to fellow inmate Rustichello da Pisa. These accounts, subsequently published as “The Travels of Marco Polo”, became one of the medieval world’s most influential sources on Asia.

On the upper floor, La Sala del Capitano (Captain’s Hall) remains open to visitors.

Fast forward to 1407, when the Palazzo became the headquarters of the Bank of Saint George, newly founded to manage the city’s  public debt. As one of the oldest chartered banks in Europe, it became a forerunner of modern financial institutions, managing state revenues, public works, and even governing overseas territories. The bank survived until the fall of the Republic in 1797, finally ceasing operations in 1805.

Today the palace houses the Port Authority. The interior is not fully accessible to the public, as the building serves mainly administrative functions. However, selected rooms are open for special events and guided visits, offering a look at frescoed halls and restored spaces linked to the palace’s financial and political past.

Acquario di Genova

The aquarium showcases over 12 000 marine animals in diverse ecosystems.

A few steps away on the Old Port, the Aquarium is one of Europe’s most significants, with 70 tanks housing approximately 12,000 marine animals representing over 600 species. Designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano and inaugurated in 1992, it features diverse ecosystems, including the Cetacean Pavilion with bottlenose dolphins, the Shark Bay with various shark species, and a tropical tank where manatees are the main attraction. 

The vast rooftop offers a panoramic vista of Genoa’s skyline and harbor, offering  a unique perspective of the city’s exceptional blend of history and modernity.

Galata Museo del Mare

The Nazario Sauro submarine is open to visitors.

As short ten-minute walk along the waterfront, the Galata Museum of the Sea showcases Genoa’s seafaring history. Designed by Spanish architect Guillermo Vázquez Consuegra and inaugurated in 2024, it is the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean. Highlights include full-scale ship reconstructions, including a 17th century Genoese galley, historical maps, navigation instruments, and exhibits on migrations and transatlantic voyages. The museum also features a submarine, the Nazario Sauro, which visitors can explore to experience life underwater.

Modern Explorers

In Genoa, the Age of Discovery didn’t end in the 17th century. The 19th century also contributed several explorers of note, two of whom have left us remarkable museums.

Museo Edoardo Chiossone

The  collection features thousands pieces of Japanese art.

Edoardo Chiossone (1833-1898) was an noted engraver, painter and art collector who, in 1875, was invited to Japan to set up and manage the engraving division of the Imperial Printing Bureau. Over the next two decades, he designed Japan’s first modern banknotes, introduced advanced printing techniques and revolutionized the country’s currency system. An avid collector of Japanese art, he accumulated over 15,000 pieces during his stay. 

The collection includes unique 19th century theater masks.

Upon his death, he bequeathed his entire collection to the Ligurian Academy of Fine Arts in Genoa, to be displayed permanently to the public. Inaugurated in 1905, the Edoardo Chiossone Museum showcases his extensive collections of vintage paintings, Buddhist sculptures, weaponry and textiles. It is considered one of the most important collections of Japanese and Eastern art in Europe.

 

Museo delle Culture del Mondo

The Turkish Lounge is reconstituted with artifacts from the Ottoman Empire.

We owe this fascinating Museum of World Cultures to Enrico D’Albertis (1846–1932), a dedicated navigator, explorer, writer and ethnologist who led an extraordinary life of adventure and discovery. He undertook voyages across the Atlantic and Pacific, circumnavigating the globe three times and Africa once. In 1891, he also retraced Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage from southern Spain to San Salvador. Using period-appropriate navigation instruments that he had reconstructed himself, he reached the coast in just 27 days.

The Neo-Gothic Castello D’Albertis now houses the Museum of World Cultures.

Meanwhile, D’Albertis designed and built his Neo-Gothic Genoa residence, Castello D’Albertis, between 1886 and 1892. Located on the Montegalletto hill overlooking the port and city, the castle showcases his extensive collection of ethnographic and archaeological artifacts, as well as nautical memorabilia, photographs, and natural specimens gathered from his travels across five continents. Upon his death in1932, he donated his castle and collections to the city of Genoa, where they now form the core of the Museum of World Cultures.

The rooftop terrace of the Aquarium offers a panoramic view of the Genoa harbor..

Good to Know

  • Getting There — Genoa is located on the Mediterranean coast, in the northwestern part of Italy, about 200 kilometers (125 miles ) southeast of Milan, 400 kilometers (250 miles) northwest of Rome, and 150 kilometers (100 miles) east of the French border.  By Air—Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo Airport is approximately 8 kilometers (5 miles)  west of the city center. It handles both domestic and international flights from major cities within Europe. By Train — There are frequent daily train connections between  Genoa and other major Italian cities.  By Road — The A8/A10 highway offers scenic routes along the Mediterranean coast, between the South of France and Genoa.
  • Getting around — The waterfront is accessible on foot from the Historic Center and via public transport, including the San Giorgio metro station.
  • Visiting —  Museo Edoardo Chiossone , Piazzale Giuseppe Mazzini 4, 16122 Genoa.  Is open Tuesday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm. It is closed on Mondays and major holidays. Commonly referred to as Castello D’Albertis, the Museo delle Culture del Mondo , 18 Corso Dogali, 16136 Genoa  is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm , and Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm. It is closed on Monday and major holidays. 

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Italy — A walk through Genoa’s storied past…

Italy — A walk through Genoa’s storied past…

28 December 2025 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

Founded around 1000 BC by the Ligurians, Genoa was an important trading hub during the Roman empire. After the empire fell, the city was conquered by the usual cast of successive invaders (Byzantines, Lombards, Franks et al.).

Genoa remains the largest commercial port in Italy.

Fast forward to the 10th century AD, when Genoa started to develop into a maritime republic, on par with other powerful city-states like Venice and Pisa.  Over the next centuries, its deep, sheltered bay on the Ligurian Sea became a center of maritime trade and naval power. With colonies and trading posts from the Black Sea to the Atlantic, and proximity to the alpine passes that connected the Mediterranean with northern Europe, Genoa prospered as one of Europe’s leading commercial and financial hubs.

The Carrugi

The carrugi are a maze of tall, narrow buildings.

While steep coastal hills and surrounding mountains provided natural protection against invasions, this favorable topography was not deemed sufficient to ensure the safety of the city. Medieval Genoa became known for the extensive fortifications that made it a quasi-impregnable fortress. Faced with limited space within its walls to accommodate its rapid growth, the city developed vertically, into a labyrinth of narrow winding alleys known as carrugi,

The carrugi connected warehouses, workshops, and markets directly to the harbor, making them vital for commerce, while offering protection to its residents. They remain to this day a vibrant hub of local life, with traditional eateries, artisan shops, and cultural landmarks reflecting the city’s rich history and multicultural heritage.

The Palazzi di Rolli

Facade frescoes were a sign of wealth and status.

Occasionally, the carrugi widen a bit, or intersect to form a piazzetta (tiny square), and you come face-to-face with the elegantly frescoed facade of  a Renaissance or Baroque palace. Deprived by the limited space  of the possibility for expansive gardens or open squares, Genoa’s merchant aristocrats turned to elaborate exterior paintings to showcase their status.

The interiors of palazzi were extravagantly decorated.

These palaces also compensated for their discreet facades with richly decorated interiors. Many them belonged to the  Palazzi dei Rolli, a group of palaces that were part of an official registry (Rolli) of noble residences selected to host state visitors, such as princes and ambassadors, during the 16th and 17th centuries heydays of the Republic of Genoa. Today they remain a veritable “who is who” chronicle of this illustrious past, and several of them have become noted museums.

Palazzo Reale

The Gallery of Mirrors.

Now known as the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), this 17th century masterpiece of Baroque architecture was built by the Balbi family, and became the royal residence in Genoa of the House of Savoy in the 19th century. It is remarkable for its lavishly frescoed halls, grand staircases, and its famous Gallery of Mirrors. Today, it is now a national museum focused on historic interiors, furnishings and art collections illustrating Genoese and Savoy aristocratic life.

Palazzo Spinola

Palazzo Spinola interior.

Built in the late 16th century for the Spinola family, it is now the Palazzo Spinola National Gallery. Within its richly decorated interiors with frescoed ceilings by prominent Ligurian artists, it displays paintings, sculptures, furniture, ceramics and tapestries that reflect the life of the Genoese nobility. Highlights include works by Rubens, Van Dyck, and Antonello da Messina, along with period rooms illustrating how aristocratic families lived.

Along Via Garibaldi

Palazzo Tursi- entrance foyer ceiling fresco.

Originally called Strata Nuova (New Street), Via Garibaldi is part of the city’s 16th century’s urban expansion intended to provide a prestigious residential area for the Genoese aristocracy. The street, renamed in 1882 to honor the Italian unification hero Giuseppe Garibaldi, remains famous for its Renaissance architectural splendor.  It is a showcase of the wealth and influence of the Genoese golden age, housing museums such as Palazzo Rosso and Palazzo Bianco, as well as Palazzo Tursi, now the city’s City Hall.

Palazzo Rosso – Baroque interior.

Palazzo Rosso — Built in the 17th century for the Brignole Sale family, the Red Palace features lavish Baroque interiors and an extensive art collection, including works by Van Dyck, Veronese, Guercino, and Strozzi. Visitors can also access the rooftop terrace for panoramic views of Genoa.

 

The loggia of the Palazzo Bianco overlooks the Via Garibaldi.

Palazzo Bianco — Built between 1530 and 1540 for Luca Grimaldi, the White Palace now displays an interesting  collection of European paintings from the 12th to 17th  centuries, including works by Caravaggio, Rubens, Van Dyck and Veronese.

 

 

San Lorenzo Cathedral

The richly frescoed aspe of the San Lorenzo Cathedral.

Construction of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo began in the early 12th century, on the site of an earlier 6th century church. Its distinctive black-and-white striped marble façade and sculpted portals, prevalent in Italy at the time, reflects the transition from Romanesque to Gothic style. The interior also features Renaissance and Baroque elements from later renovations, including the dazzling Baroque main altar and the extravagant side chapels sponsored by noble families. Also of note are the stunning ceiling frescoes by great local artists, including Luca Cambiaso.

San Pietro di Bianchi Church

San Pietro in Banchi Church.

As you wander around the maze of the carrugi, you will eventually come across the church of San Pietro in Bianchi. Rising above the tiny Piazza Bianchi, bustling with all manners of neighborhood shops, this small 16th century blend of Renaissance and Baroque gem with its triple-arched portico and frescoed facade, was built above street level to accommodate the commercial activity. Walk up the flight of stairs and enjoy its stunning altarpieces, frescoes, and serene atmosphere.

 

 

 

Piazza di Ferrari

The central fountain is a focal point of the city.

Originated in the late 19th century Piazza di Ferrari is part of the city’s effort to modernize and create a central public space between the historic medieval town and the newer, modern districts. The sprawling square itself took shape in the early 20th  century, when it was gradually surrounded with elegant banks, theaters, and institutional buildings. Its iconic central fountain was installed in the 1930s to complete the urban design.

The piazza is surrounded by buildings of varied modern architectural styles.

The buildings around piazza showcase a mix of architectural styles. You’ll notice elements of Renaissance Revival, Baroque Revival, and Art Nouveau/Liberty style, reflecting the city’s transformation into a modern financial and cultural hub. Grand stone façades, ornate balconies, domes, and decorative sculptures give the square its emblematic appearance. Today, it is a popular meeting place for both locals and tourists, and the city’s hub for cultural, social, and political events.

 

Good to Know

Getting There — Genoa is located on the Mediterranean coast, in the northwestern part of Italy, about 200 kilometers (125 miles ) southeast of Milan, 400 kilometers (250 miles) northwest of Rome, and 150 kilometers (100 miles) east of the French border.  By Air—Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo Airport is approximately 8 kilometers (5 miles)  west of the city center. It handles both domestic and international flights from major cities within Europe. By Train — There are frequent daily train connections between  Genoa and other major Italian cities.  By Road — The A8/A10 highway offers scenic routes along the Mediterranean coast, between the South of France and Genoa.

Getting Around — The best way to explore the historic center of Genoa is on foot.  The carrugi are mainly closed to vehicular traffic, and they are paved with uneven stones. Wear your most comfortable shoes.

Visiting — Palazzo Reale, 10 Via Balbi, is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm, and on the first and third Sundays of the month from 1:30  pm to 7:00 pm. Palazzo Spinola , Piazza Pellicceria,  is opened Tuesday from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm, Wednesday to Saturday from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm, and on the first and third Sundays of the month from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm.  Palazzo Rosso ,18  Via Garibaldi, and Palazzo Bianco , 9 Via Garibaldi, are open Tuesday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, and weekends from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, is open daily from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm and 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm. The Church of San Pietro in Banchi is open Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, with masses on Saturdays and Sundays at 5:30 pm. 

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Genoa

Ravenna — Beyond the Byzantine Masterpieces

Ravenna — Beyond the Byzantine Masterpieces

9 November 2025 | Europe, Italy, Places | 0 comments

Ravenna is widely recognized as a showcase of Italy’s early Christian and Byzantine history. Between the 5th and 7th centuries A.D., it was successively the capital of the Western Roman Empire, the Gothic Kingdom of Theodoric the Great and the Byzantine Empire. This tumultuous period has left us a rich heritage of religious monuments, remarkable for their unique blend of oriental and western architectural style, magnificent Byzantine mosaics and Christian iconography. However, there is more to Ravenna than these glorious mosaics-clad masterpieces.

Mausoleum of Theodoric

The mausoleum of Theodoric the Great.

Built around 520 AD at the behest of Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths, as his burial place, the mausoleum is the only early Christian royal tomb in the city. Located in an area close to the city walls, it was at the time overlooking a lagoon, now a serene verdant park. 

This Roman porphyry tub originally held the remains of Theodoric.

The monument features two superposed  decagonal levels, made of Istrian stone sourced from a quarry approximately 400 kilometers (249 miles) away by land. The roof consists of a single carved stone 10 meters (33 feet) in diameter weighing 230 tonnes. At ground level, a niche leads into a room supposed to have been a chapel for funeral liturgies. External stairs lead to the upper floor where, at the center of the space an ancient Roman porphyry tub, likely from a bath complex, held the remains of Theodoric. These were removed during Byzantine rule, when the mausoleum was turned into a Christian oratory.

 

Basilica of San Giovanni Evangelista

The columns of the nave are topped with elaborate Corinthian capitals.

Also somewhat removed from the historic center, the Basilica of San Giovanni Evangelista has an interesting story to tell. Erected by Empress Galla Placidia after 424 A.D. to fulfill a vow made during a storm at sea, it is one of the oldest churches in the city. Built entirely of exposed brick in the typical Ravenna basilica layout it consists of three naves separated by two rows of 12 columns each and a semi-circular domed apse. In the middle ages, the church was annexed to a Benedictine monastery and over time, stripped of all its sumptuous wall mosaics. Despite this incredible loss, the church remains one of the oldest and most elegant in the city.

Fragment of mosaic pavement depicting scenes of  the fourth crusade.

Heavily bombed during World War II, the building was subsequently restored. At that time, excavations uncovered a startling set of 13th century floor mosaics, depicting the main events of the fourth crusade (1202-1204), as well as a disparate collection of naive images ranging from folks tales to the signs of the zodiac and  mythical beasts. These are now displayed along the walls of the nave. However, what makes them remarkable is their modest, child-like execution. Clearly addressed to an humble, illiterate congregation ,they tell their story in plain, straight-forward line drawings. They are a record, a Bayeux Tapestry in stone, of this last, calamitous crusade that shook the very foundations of society. 

Archiepiscopal Museum

Lattice marble balustrades (transennae) 8th and 9th centuries.

Built in the beginning of the 5th century as the palace of the archbishops (and home of the Archiepiscopal Chapel), the Archiepiscopal Museum was established in early 18th century at the behest of Archbishop Maffeo Niccolò Farsetti. Its primary purpose was to safeguard the marbles, mosaics fragments and other artifacts removed from the early 5th century Ursiana Basilica, the original cathedral of Ravenna. After restoration works carried several times throughout the centuries, it was now being entirely rebuilt in the Baroque style.

The ivory Throne of Maximianus-6th century.

The museum’s galleries house masterpieces from the different historical and artistic periods of the city, ranging from Early Christian to modern times. An outstanding example of Byzantine art is  the Throne of Maximianus. Made of ivory in the 6th century, it is considered among the finest pieces of ivory carving in Western art. Also of note is the circular 6th century marble Pascal Calendar. Its purpose was to fix the movable feast of Easter so that it might be celebrated everywhere in Christendom on the same day (in spite of the East and West using different calendars). 

Domus of the Stone Carpets

Banquet Hall (circa 5th century).

Considered one of Italy’s most important archaeological sites discovery of recent decades, the Domus of Stone Carpets is what remains of a complex of buildings dating back to various periods between the 1st century 6th centuries. The excavations revealed a rich, 700-square-meter ( 7,500 square meters) Byzantine residence consisting of 14 rooms and 2 courtyards. All their floors are entirely adorned with stone inlays and polychromatic tesserae (mosaic tiles) featuring sophisticated  patterns and figurative elements.

The Dance of the Seasons.

Raised walkways lead visitor around the perimeter of the site and guide them through the various spaces. Most rooms feature various elaborate geometric patterns. Outstanding among them, in the center of the large banquet hall, a mosaic scene represents the Seasons, dancing  in a circle to the sound of a musician (Pan). It is possible to identify Autumn from behind, Spring on the left, Winter covered by a hood and fragments of Summer on the right. In an earlier part in the domus, an other vignette pictures a shepherd and his sheep (possibly the Good Shepherd?).

Dante in Ravenna

When it comes to Dante (1265–1321), the great Florentine poet, writer, and philosopher instrumental in establishing the Tuscan dialect as the Italien language, our mind naturally goes to Florence. Yet if we want to visit his tomb, Ravenna is the place.

A small neoclassical mausoleum hold Dante’s sarcophagus. sarcophagus adjoins the basilica.

Modern artwork memorializes Dante in the Garden of Silence.

How did that come to be? Dante, like most Florentines of his day, was embroiled in the Guelph–Ghibelline (i.e. Pope vs Holy Roman Emperor) conflict, which resulted in his being condemned in 1302, to exile for two years, and ordered to pay a large fine. He would never return to Florence. He lived in Bologna and Verona among other Italian city-states, before spending his last few years in Ravenna, where he died in September 1321. He was 56. It was during this 19 years exile that he wrote the masterpieces that led him to be recognized as one of the Western world’s greatest literary icons.

His funeral was held in the cloister of  a Franciscan monastery, then the Church of San Pier Maggiore, (now Basilica of San Francesco). He was entombed in the ancient Roman sarcophagus in which he still rests. Florence eventually came to regret having exiled Dante. The city made repeated claims for the possession of his remains. The custodians of the body in Ravenna consistantly refused, at one point going so far as to conceal the bones in a false wall of the monastery.

A contemporary artwork exhibit honors Dante.

Today a small neoclassical mausoleum built over his sarcophagus adjoins the basilica. The monument stands in a corner of a Garden of Silence, once the monastic cloister, of which only one colonnade remains today. Hanging from the mausoleum’s vault, a votive lamp burn continually, with Tuscan olive oil donated yearly by the Municipality of Florence to commemorate its fellow citizen. Every evening at sunset, volunteers gather on the steps of Dante’s tomb to recite a canto from his ‘Divine Comedy’, to celebrate the poet and give everyone the opportunity to try their hand at reading one of the most illustrious works of Italian culture. 

 

 

 

Good to Know

  • Getting There—Ravenna is located a few miles inland from the Adriatic coast, some 100 miles south of Venice, and 50 miles east of Bologna. It is easily accessible by train from both cities. The nearest international airport is Bologna, with flights from most European countries.
  • Getting Around—Just walk! The historic city center is mainly pedestrianized, and most of the main sites are located within an easy 15 minutes from each other. Even the Mausoleum of Theodoric is no more than approximately 1.5 kilometer (1 mile) from the center of town
  • Visiting —Mausoleum of Theodoric —Via delle Industrie, 14 – Ravenna, is open daily, April through October, 8:30 am to 7:00 pm and November through March, 8:30 am to 4:30 pm. Basilica of San Giovanni Evangelista — Viale Luigi Carlo Farini – Ravenna, is open year-round Tuesday through Sunday: 10.00 am to 4.30 pm. Archiepiscopal Museum — Piazza Arcivescovado, 1 – Ravenna, is open daily from March through October: 9:00 am to 7:00 pm and November through February: 10:00 am to 5:00 pm. Domus of the Stone Carpets — Via Gian Battista Barbiani – Ravenna, is open year-round Tuesday through Sunday:  10:00 am to 5:00 pm. Dante’s Tomb —  Via Dante Alighieri, 9 – Ravenna, is open daily from November through March: 10:00 am to 6:00 pm and April through October: 10:00 am – 7:00 pm.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Ravenna, Italy