Riomaggiore clings to the sides of a narrow valley.

The rocky strip of Ligurian coast south of Genoa had been  dotted with small fishing villages since Antiquity. Then, in the 9th century A.D., the Saracens repeatedly ravaged the area. Local people took refuge high up the hills, where they turned the steep slopes into cultivated terraces held by dry stone walls. And they established the vineyards, olive and lemon groves, and the vegetable gardens that remain to this day.

By the 11th century, with the Republic of Genoa beginning to assert its control over the Ligurian coast, the local tribes moved back down to the sea and began settling the coastal villages.

Cinque Terre

The “Five Lands,” (Cinque Terre), Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore, are a string of five historic villages clinging to a 12 kilometer ( 7.5 mile) stretch of the southern end of the rugged Ligurian shoreline.

The Aurora Tower still overlooks Monterosso al Mare.

With the Republic of Genoa consolidating its control over the coast through the 12th and 13th centuries, these small harbors became  strategic outposts that helped protect its maritime might. Residents erected watchtowers and fortifications to monitor maritime traffic, guard against pirate attacks and invasions by conflicting city-states (such as Pisa and Venice). Remnants of these fortifications can still be seen today.

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare is the largest of the five villages.

Closest to Genoa, about 75 kilometers (47 miles) from the center of town, Monterosso al Mare is the largest and one of the most popular of the five villages. More a small town than a village, it is divided into two parts: the historic  and the contemporary, linked by a short tunnel running under the 16th century Aurora Tower.  On the eastern side, the historic old town (Borgo Antico) is a maze of narrow, winding streets (carrugi) lined with colorful houses, tiny piazzas, and traditional shops.

The nave of the church of San Giovanni Battista is a fine example of Ligurian Gothic striped marble work.

Remarkable landmarks include the 13th century church of San Giovanni Battista. With its striking facade of alternating white and green marble stripes, it is a fine example of Ligurian Gothic style. Also of note is the Capuchin Monastery, established in 1618 on the hill of San Cristoforo. This complex includes the Church of San Francesco, a relatively well preserved convent with twelve friar cells, communal rooms and cloisters. It also features several artworks by important 17th  and 18th century artists, and a superb view of the Cinque Terre coast.

A small sheltered beach and charming harbor further enhance its medieval coastal village feel. In contrast, on the western side of the tunnel, the modern Fegina district is popular for its long sandy beach, the only one of the Cinque Terre, modern hotels, the train station and other recent facilities.

Vernazza

The circular tower of Castello Doria has been standing guard over Vernazza since the 13th century,

A mere 3 kilometers (2 miles)  south of Monterosso al Mare, its colorful neighbor Vernazza, is widely considered the most picturesque of the Cinque Terre. As the only one with a natural harbor, it became very early a hub for commerce with Genoa as well as other destinations.  As a result, Vernazza became the most prosperous of the villages, wielding both economic and political powers. This past wealth is still visible in the arcades, archways and balconies along its ancient streets, and the remains of its fortifications. On a promontory rising from the shore, the circular tower of the Castello Doria, once owned by the noble Genoese Doria family, remains a major landmark.

The octogonal bell tower of Santa Margarita d’Antiochia dominates the Piazza Marconi.

Today, the focal point of the village is its main square, the lively  Piazza Marconi, with its harbor-side eateries, colorful houses and picturesque fishing boats. And, overlooking the Piazza, you can’t miss the church of Santa Margarita d’Antiochia with its 40 meters (130 feet) high octagonal bell tower, constructed in 1318 in the Ligurian Gothic style.

Corniglia

Corniglia sits on a ledge high above the water.

Clinging to the rock face, 3.5 kilometers (2.1 miles) south of Vernazza, Corniglia is the only village not directly in contact with the sea.  Standing on a high rocky ledge intensively cultivated with vineyards, 100 meters ( 320 ft) above the sea, this little hamlet can only be reached by a 377 step staircase from the train station, or through the network of hiking trails that connect the five villages. The reward is a unique panoramic view of the Cinque Terre.

Manarola

Manarola is one of the most colorful villages of Cinque Terre,

It’s a relatively easy 2 kilometer (1.2  mile) walk from Corniglia to Manarola, along a path with spectacular gardens and sea views.

Built on a promontory some 70 meters (230 feet) above sea level, it is one of the most charming of the five villages. Dominated by stacks of multicolored houses clinging to the rock face, it is all steep narrow alleys leading to the sea. The tiny harbor is filled with the traditional brightly painted fishing boats. Known for its deep waters and abundance of fish, it is a popular swimming and snorkeling spot. The seafront is the perfect place to relax at a cafe terrace, enjoy a catch-of-the-day meal, and watch the occasional daring diver jump off the cliff.

Riomaggiore

The ancient houses of Riomaggiore cling to the valley walls.

The southern-most village of the Cinque Terre, just 1.7 kilometer (1.05 mile) from Manarola, Riomaggiore is a cascade of bright houses built into the sides of the narrow valley of the Rio Maggiore, the small seasonal stream, which gave it its name.

From the main street, via Colombo, countless sets of steps lead up to back alleys lined with narrow two and three-story houses. These ancient houses feature two entrances, one at the front, the other at the back, usually higher up, to give their inhabitants an escape route into the hills in case of pirate attacks. Stroll along the main street, Via Colombo, down to the small harbor  and the pebble beach located near the boats docking point. Or climb up to the upper part of the village to the  Church of San Giovanni Battista, with its northern part leaning into the hill. Originally built in the 14th century, its façade was reconstructed in Neo-Gothic style in 1870.

Getting there — By train: The most reliable access to the villages from either Genoa to the north or La Spezia to the south  is by train. The Cinque Terre Express trains run approximately  every 20 minutes from mid March to first week of November, and only once or twice an hour during winter months.

From the main train station in Genoa, Genova Porta Principe, there are Intercity and regional trains almost every hour directly to Levanto, Monterosso and La Spezia. The travel time is just over an hour. If your destination is Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola or Riomaggiore, you will need to transfer to the local Cinque Terre Express in Levanto. From there the train will stop at Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore and lastly La Spezia. Be aware that there are a lot of tunnels to pass through, so the views are limited and constantly interrupted. A Cinque Terre Train Card costs around 18 Euros for a one day pass with unlimited stops.   CAUTION—Make sure to validate your ticket at the green machine located in the stairs on the way to the platform each time you board the train or face a 50 Euro fine!

By Ferry: A regular ferry service between Monterosso and La Spezia runs from April 1st  to the end of October (contingent on weather and sea conditions). Frequency varies from approximately 10 daily in summer to 5 daily in the low season.  The ferry stops at all the villages except Corniglia, since it doesn’t have access to the water. It is a great way to appreciate the unique topography of the area and get an overall view of the villages.

On foot:  The famous coastal hiking path, the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue path), connects all the villages. However, inquire before setting out as rockslides may occasionally close parts of the trail. There is a fee to use the parts of the trail that are within the National Park of the Cinque Terre.  A one-day pass is around 8 Euros. 

Note —The tradition of painting the facades of the Cinque Terre villages in bright colors began centuries ago, (as they did on the island of Burano in the Venetian Lagoon), primarily to help fishermen identify their homes from the sea. Over time, this practice evolved into a cultural tradition, with each family selecting a distinct color for their house, thus creating the vibrant, multicolored landscapes seen today. By the 1970s, as tourism increased, locals recognized the aesthetic and cultural value of these colorful facades, leading to efforts to preserve and maintain them. 

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A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!