It begins as a casual question from friends, a couple considering a first visit to Italy. Aware of my lifelong love affair with the country, they are reaching out for insights. And just like that, we are off on several weeks of enthusiastic brainstorming.

Shaping a Dream Trip

The dome of the St. Peter Basilica is omnipresent in the landscape of the city.

There are as many dream trips as there are travelers. After a few exchanges to zero in on their interests and expectations, theirs take the shape of a 14 days/13 nights personalized version of the Rome-Venice-Florence circuit popular with many first-time visitors — with the addition of Siena and Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia.

Since their flight from the US will arrive early morning on Day One and depart around midday on Day Fourteen, we split their time in Rome between the first two and last two nights to avoid any stress from unforeseen issues with connections. The remaining three stops, Venice, Florence and Siena, are three nights each. And they will use the efficient (and tourist friendly) national railroad network to travel between destinations. 

What follows is a recap of their itinerary based on their feedback to my questions and suggestions.

Where to Stay in Rome?

Sunset on the rooftop terrace of the Hotel Mediterraneo.

There are literally hundreds of hotels in the sprawling center of the city. So, where to stay? Consider the Hotel Mediterraneo. It’s a large property from the Mussolini era (circa 1930’s, which means over-the-top grand architecture and pseudo Art-Deco decor), a style I may not usually favor. However, it has a huge location advantage for your itinerary. It sits on top of the  Esquilino Hill, the highest of Rome’s Seven Hills. In addition to offering panoramic views of the city, it is a mere 200 meters (700 ft)  from the Roma Termini Train Station, which will come handy on arrival, as the best option to get from Fumicino Airport to the center of Rome is the Leonardo (da Vinci) Express train to Termini. 

The proximity of city’s main station.is a major convenience.

This proximity will also be useful on the morning of Day Three, to catch an early express train from Termini to Venice, and for the return flight at the end of your trip. If the Mediterraneo doesn’t inspire you, look for another suitable hotel options in the vicinity.

Day One — First Impressions

The Trevi Fountain is a mandatory stop for first-time visitors.

Let’s be clear that the following are “must-see” suggestions, intended to maximize your time in Rome, and leave you with free time to focus on whatever else will catch your attention: colorful markets, picturesque back alleys and inviting café terraces where you can enjoy watching the world go by.

As soon as you are settled, head for the Trevi Fountain, a twenty-minute walk from the hotel that will take by the Via delle Quatro Fontane, with its four magnificent 16th century fountains. Once at the Trevi, with your back turned to it, throw a coin (a quarter will do, per person) over your left shoulder into the fountain to ensure that you will return someday. It worked for me.

The Fountain of the Boat.

Now head toward the Piazza del Popolo. Along the way, you pass the Spanish Steps. Enjoy the view from the top, then a few hundred feet to the left, the Villa Medici and its magnificent gardens.  At the bottom of the Steps, you notice the unique Fontana della Barcaccia  (Fountain of the Boat”), built in the early 17th century by Pietro Bernini to provide drinking water to the neighborhood.

The Piazza del Popolo view from the Pincian Hill.

As you enter the vast oval of the Piazza del Popolo, one of  the city’s largest and most famous squares, you can’t miss the Egyptian obelisk of Ramesses II at its center. Brought to Rome from Heliopolis  by order of Augustus in 10 B.C., it is one of the oldest and tallest obelisks in Rome (some 36 meters or 118 feet). There are also three churches around the square: the 17th century Baroque “twins”, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto, on both sides of the Via del Corso. No need to go in unless you are really into Baroque churches.

The Conversion of St. Paul  – Caravaggio (circa 1601).

There is a third church, Santa Maria del Popolo. on the northern side of the square. Built in the 15th century in the more austere Renaissance style, it is the one you may want to visit as it is home to two major Caravaggio paintings. I am not a big fan of his huge and overly realistic religious paintings, but he is universally considered one of the most influential painters of his time. So, see these two (The Crucifixion of Saint Peter and The Conversion of Saint.Paul on the road to Damascus) and make up your own mind about him.

Day Two — Rome

Basilica San Pietro

Early morning in Saint Peter Square.

The Saint Peter Basilica opens at 7:00 am. Get there as early as you can to avoid the security lines that become quite long by mid-morning. And the grandiose Saint Peter Square is especially lovely in the morning light. Once you are inside, figure at least one hour to visit. Make sure you see the breathtaking white marble Pieta sculpture by Michelangelo. And you can’t miss the Baldacchino, the soaring sculpted bronze canopy over the high altar, located directly under the dome of the Basilica.

The monumental bronze Baldacchino marks the place of St. Peter’s tomb below.

If you are feeling energetic, consider climbing the 551 steps to the top of the cupola. There is an optional elevator that covers the first 231steps and takes you to the roof of the Basilica (but expect long lines). Then you are on your own for the additional 320 steps up the narrow spiral staircase to the top. Your reward will be a 360 degree view of Saint Peter Square, the entire Vatican City State, and the city of Rome to the horizon.

The Gardens of the Vatican.

Access the remainder of the Vatican, which includes the Sistine Chapel, the Vatican Museums and gardens, is just around the corner. However, should you wish to visit, you will need to purchase tickets well ahead of time. Admission is by specified time slots that fill up weeks ahead, as the number of visitors is strictly limited. Once inside allocate at least three hours for the visit. 

Castel Sant’Angelo

Castel Sant’Angelo was originally a Roman mausoleum.

Leaving the Vatican, walk west towards the Tiber and the Vittorio Emanuele bridge. As you cross the river you will see the circular fortress of Castel Sant’ Angelo on the left bank of the river. Initially commissioned by the Emperor Hadrian in 134 A.D. as a mausoleum for himself and his family, it was converted by popes in the 14th century into a fortified castle, and later on occasionally also served as a prison.

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona – Detail of the Fountain of the Four Rivers.

Once across the bridge, another 10-minute walk west along via di Panico takes you to Piazza Navona. Built on site of a 1st century A.D. Roman stadium used for athletic contests, the vast square is a spectacular example of Baroque architecture. At its center, against a backdrop of grand ornate facades, enjoy the famous  Fountain of the Four Rivers topped by a soaring Roman obelisk. The square is also lined with inviting café terraces for a leisurely break.

Once you have rested your sightseeing-weary feet, it’s another five-minute walk to the Pantheon (Temple of the Gods). Although we planned for you to explore the major antique sites at the end of your trip, take the opportunity to see this one while you are “just around the corner”.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of the best preserved Roman monuments in the world.

One of the best-preserved of all Ancient Roman buildings anywhere, the Pantheon has been in continuous use throughout its history. A former Roman temple built by emperor Hadrian and dedicated around 126 A.D., it became a Catholic Basilica in the 7th century. Behind its imposing portico of soaring granite Corinthian columnst, the interior is a rotunda topped by a coffered concrete dome and a central oculus. The height to the oculus and the diameter of the interior circle are the same: 43 meters (142 feet). To this day the Pantheon’s dome remains the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world.

Day Three

Head for the Rome Termini station and catch your early express train to Venice Santa Lucia station. 

Days Twelve and Thirteen — Rome Antique

The Colosseum is the largest Roman amphitheater ever built.

The Arch of Constantine is clad in carved marble.

Fast forward ten days to your return to Rome. You should be arriving from Siena in the early afternoon. With about thirty-six hours of sightseeing time remaining to explore the Antique Rome, it should also afford you plenty of time to relax, and check out whatever else catches up your eye before your flight home.

 It’s a mere 20-minute walk along the Via Cavour from your hotel to the Colosseum, the gigantic elliptical amphitheater in the center of the city. Built in 72-80 A.D., it is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and it remains the largest in the world.  Constructed of travertine limestone, tuff (volcanic rock) and brick-faced concrete, it was used for gladiatorial contests and other public spectacles, and could hold an audience of 65,000. 

From there, it’s only a few minutes’ walk to the Forum, taking a look at the Arch of Constantine as you go by.  Constructed of brick-faced concrete covered in carved marble, it was commissioned by the Roman Senate, and dedicated to the emperor Constantine the Great in 315 A.D. 

The Forum

The Forum is best viewed from the Capitoline Hill.

What remains of the Roman Forum consists mainly of a large expanse of columns and porticoes in various stages of ruin. Although is can be visited, a bird’s eye view will give you the best sense of the majesty of the ancient complex. For that, walk up the adjoining Capitoline Hill. Then, facing the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center of the square on top of the hill, head down the road behind it for a spectacular view of the overall Roman Forum and the hills beyond.

Good to Know

• Getting there — Fumicino Airport to the center of Rome: the  Leonardo Express train runs several times per hour and will reliably get you there in 30 minutes. Rome to Venice —  Italiarail  offers speed trains service from Rome Termini station to Venice Santa Lucia twice per hour from early morning to late evening. The scenic 550 kilometer (330 mile) route takes just under 4 hours. Tickets may be purchased ahead directly on their site, or at the train station.
• Where to stay — The Hotel Mediterraneo  is located 15 via Cavour, 00187 Rome. Tel.: +39 06 488 4051
• Visiting — Saint Peter Basilica — The Basilica is open daily from 7:00 am to 7:00 pm. There is no charge to enter the Basilica but you will need to purchase tickets to allow access to the cupola. Note-there is a dress code to enter the Basilica. Both men and women are required to cover their knees and upper arms. This prohibits wearing shorts or skirts above the knee, sleeveless tops, and low-cut shirts.  The Vatican Musems and Sistine Chapel — tickets should be purchased in advance through either via the official Vatican website or one of the many commercial guided tour sites  available on the web. The Colosseum — tickets may be purchased on their  official Colosseum website or on site .

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!