Denmark — The Exceptional Museums of Copenhagen

Denmark — The Exceptional Museums of Copenhagen

Beyond its iconic canals lined with colorful medieval houses, its world renowned Tivoli Garden entertainment park and historic royal residences, Copenhagen is also home to some exceptional museums. 

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Founded in 1888 by Carl Jacobsen, the scion of the Carlsberg brewing empire, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is a stunning museum housing over 10,000 works focused especially on early Mediterranean antiquities and 19th century French art. A passionate collector, Jacobson bequeathed his Impressionist collection to the public in 1882, and built the Glyptotek to house it. Then in 1899, he donated his collection of antiquities, which led to  the opening of a whole extra wing.

Roman child sarcophagus (circa 150 AD in the winter garden.

From the onset, Jacobson intended the Glyptotek to be a retreat where visitors could escape the outside world and simply enjoy the beauty and aesthetics of art. To this end, the entrance of the museum is through a peaceful winter garden under a soaring glass dome, leading into a maze of marble statues and sculptures. All of the galleries were thoroughly renovated a couple decades ago  and the Glyplotek remains to this day a haven of tranquility and a favorite retreat from the sometimes less than idyllic Copenhagen weather.

The Ancient Mediterranean

The central hall showcases a Roman marble colonnade.

The recently restored  galleries  of the antiquities wing dazzle with works ranging from the early cultures of the Middle East to the fall of the Roman Empire. The collection of Roman artefacts showcases ancient marble sculptures and statues gathered from sites across the Roman world, covering everything from 600 BC to 500 AD. It includes finds from important Roman villas as well as a rich selection of funeral artefacts from the Roman city of Palmyra in current days Syria. It includes remarkable funerary busts and grave stones, and is considered one of the largest such collections outside the country

The French Impressionists

A vast gallery is dedicated to French Impressionists.

The wealth of Impressionist works assembled by Jacobson is equally dazzling, with a large gallery dedicated to works by Monet, Sisley, Degas, van Gogh, Cézanne and many others. The Glyptotek has one of the three existing complete sets of Degas’ bronze sculptures,  and the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of Paris, including monumental bronze casts.

 

 

National Museum of Denmark

The Trundholm Sun Chariot is a late Nordic Bronze Age artifact.

Housed in an 18th  century royal mansion in central Copenhagen the Nationalmuseet (or National Museum of Denmark, is the country’s largest repository of its cultural history. One of its most compelling attraction is the huge Danish Prehistory Collection.  Located on the ground floor, multiple rooms arranged around a central courtyard immerse the visitors in the country’s history. Spanning roughly 9,000 years of human activity, it ranges fromfrom Stone Age burial finds to treasures of the Viking era.

Falster Island bull elk skeleton.

Unique archaeological treasures include the Trundholm Sun Chariot (circa 1400 BC), the Egtved Girl grave (14th  century BC), the Gundestrup cauldron (2nd century BC), various burial goods from the Hoby chieftain’s grave (1st century AD), displays of bog bodies, and even the intact skeleton of a massive bull elk presumed to have sank into a peat bog on the island of Falster some 8,700 years ago.

 

The Viking Exhibition

Rune stones trace the long Viking history.

Eventually, you arrive at the Viking exhibition. At one time, Vikings controlled vast swathes of Europe, and extended their reach all the way to North America. A wall-sized map at the beginning of the exhibition shows how far their influence extended. Notable exhibits include a vast collection of rune stones, carved stones erected as memorials to powerful Viking figures. A number of them also illustrate the regions’s transition from Norse Paganism to Christianity.

The silver hoard for Terslev, Zealand, includes a vast number of coins of Arab origin.

Meanwhile, massive assortment of silver hordes and other buried wealth such as Arabic dirhams and coins minted in other distant trading hubs illustrate the far reaching  trading network of the Vikings. And the abundance of “status weapons”, finely crafted swords and scabbards richly inlaid in silver and gold stand as the ultimate symbol of these elite warriors.

 

 

Design Museum Denmark

The museum is housed in one of the finest 18th-century rococo building in the city.

Fast forward to the present. Great design is everywhere in Denmark. Danish Modern design began in the 1920’s and 30’s as a blend of traditional cabinetmaking, functionalism and human-centric ergonomics. It was pioneered by architect Kaare Klint, who founded the furniture department at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Art in 1924. He advocated matching furniture dimensions to the human body and focusing on simplicity and utility.

The Chair Tunnel showcases the evolution of Danish furniture design from the 1920s to the 1970s,

Danish Modern gained popularity in the Western World, became a style and quite literally a national brand.  The Designmuseum Danmark (Design Museum Denmark) explores how Danish designers have methodically worked with design processes and tells the story of the success behind Danish design.  The permanent exhibition takes visitors on a fascinating design journey from Klint’s ‘Room for a Woman’, over the iconic German Frankfurter kitchen, which illustrates both differences and similarities between Danish and European modernism, and the futuristic high-tech designs of the 1980s.  From furniture and ceramics to industrial design and textiles, the museum focuses on the creation of the most emblematic Danish design.

With its classic marble colonnade and large glass roof, the central hall of the Glyptotek is designed to evoke a Roman Forum.

Good to Know

The  NY Carlsberg Glyptotek is located at Dantes Plads 7, off Hans Christian Andersen’s Boulevard, in central Copenhagen, a 20 minute walk from Nyhavn. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with late-night hours to 9:00 PM on Thursday. It is closed on Monday and major holidays including December 24, 25 and 26, and January 1.

The National Museum of Denmark is located at Ny Vestergade 10, in central Copenhagen, near Frederiksholms Kanal and Christiansborg Palace, an easy 10 minute walk from the Glyptotek.  It is open daily April through October, and Tuesday through Sunday November through March, from 10:00 AM to 5:00 pm.  It is closed on December 24, 25 and 31, and January 1.

The Design Museum Denmark  is located at Bredgade 68 in central Copenhagen, within easy walking distance of from Amalienbord Palace and Nyhavn.  It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with late hours on Thursday to 8:00 pm. It is closed on December 24, 25 and 31, and January 1.

Location, location, location!

Copenhagen

Denmark — A First-Timer’s Introduction to Copenhagen

Denmark — A First-Timer’s Introduction to Copenhagen

A fishing village founded by the Vikings in the 10th century, Copenhagen prospered over the ensuing centuries to become the de facto capital of the Kingdom of Denmark. By the end of the 17th century, it had become one of the most significant trading hubs in northern Europe.  

Christianshavn retains the feel of a Dutch canal neighborhood.

With the coronation of Christian IV (a.k.a. the Builder King) in 1596, Copenhagen entered a golden age of strong economy and urban development. He commissioning landmarks such as Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower, and founded Christianshavn, a merchant and residential district inspired by Dutch canals. However, it is to one of his successors that we owe the city’s most iconic site.

 

Nyhavn

The colorful 17th century buildings  of Nyhavn are  especially popular with tourists.

Immediately upon coming to power in 1670, Christian V ordered the construction of Nyhavn (New Harbor), a 450-meter (1500 ft) long canal to serve as a gateway from the open sea to the center of the Copenhagen. For over 200 years thereafter, Nyhavn remained the hub of the city’s maritime trade. Ships unloaded their cargo, and fishermen their daily catch, merchants lived above their warehouses, sailors came and went. And the harbor was packed with vessels built for every kind of journey.

The Copenhagen Opera House was inaugurated in 2005.

Today, the colorful row of brightly painted 17th-century buildings lining the canal has become one the most photographed destinations of the city. With the many restaurants and cafés along its cobblestone streets, it is a great place to settle for a while, enjoy a local beer and smørrebrød (the traditional Danish open-face rye sandwich), and watch the world go by. Then top your Nyhavn experience with one of the hour-long canal tours departing from the docks for a laid-back look at some of the other popular sites such as the Amalienborg Palace, the Opera House, and The Little Mermaid.

The Little Mermaid

The Little Mermaid is eternally awaiting her Prince.

Named for the 1837 fairy tale by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen, the bronze statue of The Little Mermaid has been a major tourist attraction since its unveiling in 1913. Longingly gazing at the shore from her rock at the edge of the water, this graceful little statue is a mere 1.25-meter (4 ft) tall. Yet it is considered one of the city’s most iconic landmarks,

She stands just off the Langeline Pier, a pleasant seaside promenade with views of ships and the harbor. However, her presence draws hordes of tourists,  especially in the middle of the day. All the more reason to favor the canal cruise option and meet her from the water.

Amalienborg Palace

Amalienborg is the winter residence of the Danish royal family.

Returning  from your canal tour, it’s an easy 10-minute walk from Nyhavn to the Amalienborg Palace.  Designed by the architect Nicolai Eigtved in the early 1750s, it is considered the most prestigious example of Rococo architecture in Denmark. It consists of four near identical palaces surrounding  an octagonal square punctuated by an equestrian statue of King Frederik V (1723-66), the founder of Amalienborg. Today, it is the winter residence of the Danish royal family.  

If you can time your visit to arrive shortly before noon you will be treated by the changing of the Royal Gard, as they march at 12:00 sharp every day from their nearby barracks to Amalienborg Square.

The Round Tower

The spiral ramp allowed horse-drawn carts to drive up the tower.

Completed in 1642 as an astronomical observatory, the 35-meter (114 ft) high Rundetårn (Round Tower) is considered the oldest functioning observatory building in Europe, and still widely used today by amateur astronomers.  On the floor below the observatory, the Library Hall originally accommodated the University of Copenhagen book collection — hence the unusual spiral access ramp in lieu of stairs, designed to facilitate the delivery of books to the library by horse-drawn carts.

Today the Library Hall houses temporary art exhibits  as well as concerts and other cultural events, and the open rooftop platform is an ideal spot to enjoy panoramic views of the city.

Tivoli Gardens

The Tivoli Gardens entrance is especially festive at night.

No introduction to Copenhagen is complete without at least a walk around the Tivoli Gardens.

Located in the very center of Copenhagen, Tivoli is one of the oldest operating amusement parks in the the world. Inaugurated on 15 August 1843, it has been a popular destination for entertainment and culture ever since, where rides, live music, restaurants and seasonal events invitingly blend together.

The Pantomine Theater is designed for open air performances.

From its beginning it included a variety of attractions: band stands, a theatre and other structures in the style of an imaginary Orient. More permanent buildings were added later. In 1874, the Chinese-style Pantomime Theatre replaced an older, smaller theatre, and the Japanese Pagoda was built in 1900. The Glass Hall, originally built in 1863 as a concert and assembly hall, was destroyed during World War II and replaced in 1946 by the current octagonal glass building by noted Danish architect Poul Henningsen.

The Dæmonen, roller coaster is a major Tivoli attraction.

The rides feature several family-friendly classic carousels and a Ferris Wheel. But for the high adrenaline sensation seekers,  there are two notable roller coasters.  The “Rutschebanen” is a classic wooden roller coaster (circa 1914). It is the second oldest one in the world and one of the few still in existence to require a brakeman sitting in the train to slow it down manually during the drops!  Then there is the intense Dæmonen, opened in 2004. A floorless steel roller that stands 28 meters (90 ft) tall with a 20-meter (66 ft) drop, it features three loops, including a full 360 degree one, and reaches speeds up to 77 kilometers (48 mi.) per hour!

View of the Copenhagen skyline from the Round Tower Observationy.

Good to Know

  • Getting there — Located on the Oresund Straits, the gateway connecting the North Sea to the Baltic, Copenhagen is easily accessible by plane, train and ferry. By plane — Copenhagen Airport  (CPH) is located just 8 kilometres (5 mi.)  from the city centre and is well-connected to over 183 destinations worldwide, including direct flights to most major European cities. By Train — There are train connections via Hamburg, Germany and Stockholm, Sweden. By Ferry — Copenhagen is also accessible by ferry with several ferry crossings operating from nearby countries such as Germany, Sweden and Norway.
  • Getting around —The city center is compact, flat and easily walkable. 
  • Visiting — Tivoli Gardens operates seasonally, with distinct opening periods throughout the year. The park typically opens for Easter, followed by its main summer season from late April to late September. It reopens for Halloween in October and again for the Christmas season from mid-November to early January, closing only on December 24. During open periods, Tivoli is open daily from 11:00 am to 10:00 or 11:00 pm, with extended hours until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

A Few Souvenirs

Location, location, location!

Copenhagen