Tucson, Arizona

Tucson has it all: stunning desert landscapes framed on all sides by jagged mountains, a fascinating blend of Native American, Spanish, Mexican and Anglo cultures, sunshine almost every day of the year, and the most spectacular sunsets ever.

A Unique History

Tucson is one of the oldest continually inhabited areas in North America. The ancient Hohokam Indians and their descendants, the Tohono O’odam, or “Desert People,” had lived and farmed there for 4,000 years by the time the Spanish soldiers and missionaries arrived in the late 17th century, and made it their northernmost outpost in the New World.

Tucson is framed on all sides by jagged mountains.

It became part of the Mexican state of Sonora after Mexico gained its independence from the Spanish Empire in 1821. Then in 1853, the area was purchased from Mexico by the United States and subsequently became the Arizona Territory. The goal was to enable the construction of a transcontinental railroad along a deep southern route by the Southern Pacific Railroad. And so the place the O’odhams called “Chuk Shon” (“at the base of the black mountain”), went from a sleepy Mexican village to the rough frontier community of Tucson.

Shaped by the Railroad

The first train rolled into Tucson on March 20th, 1880, marking a major turning point in the city’s development. By the turn of the 20th century, it was the largest city in Arizona as well as the railroad and commercial hub of the territory.

Southern Pacific Steam Locomotive #1673.

Today this major period in the city’s development is memorialized at the Southern Arizona Transportation Museum. Located in the former Southern Pacific Depot, next to the active railroad tracks and the current Amtrak station, its exhibits focus on the history of the railroad in the area. One of the buildings houses a spectacular 146,000 pound behemoth: Southern Pacific Steam Locomotive #1673. Put into service in 1900, she logged over one million miles, primarily in freight service, before being retired in 1955.

Echoes of the Wild West

Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday.

At the west end of the Train Depot, a life-size bronze sculpture of lawmen Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday dressed in their long coats and wide-brimmed hats, and each holding a long gun, commemorates the revenge killing of outlaw Cowboy Frank Stilwell. On March 18, 1882, in the aftermath of the now legendary Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, Earp’s brother Morgan was murdered in nearby Tombstone. Two days later, Wyatt came upon Frank Stilwell, one of the individuals suspected in the Morgan Earp murder, by the Tucson Depot. Earp and Holliday took it upon themselves to even the score.

The Congress Hotel

The Hotel Congress is decorated iWestern Deco style.

A couple of blocks west of the Train Depot, the Hotel Congress is well worth a visit. Built in 1919 in the Mission Revival style, it feature red brick facades, iron balconies and curved windows. Originally used as a railroad hotel for arriving visitors, it was decorated in the Southwest Deco style. Beautiful preserved, it has retained its unique charm to this day and still functions as a hotel.

The Barrio Viejo

Barrio Viejo Street.

One of the most emblematic neighborhoods in Tucson, the Barrio Viejo (or Old Neighborhood) was first established when Tucson was still part of Mexico. Once the cultural and social heart of the city, it has retained the authenticity of its Hispanic-Mexican influenced roots. Regrettably, the northern half of the neighborhood was demolished in the 1970’s to make way for modern infrastructure. However, this irreparable loss ultimately helped galvanize efforts to preserve the city’s historic and cultural heritage.

Barrio Viejo Facade.

Today, the much gentrified Barrio Viejo retains the highest density of adobe structures in Tucson. It has become widely known for the vibrant facades and carved wooden doors of its colorful homes, and for a number of art galleries now settled throughout the area.

Barrio Landmarks

The Market in the early 1990’s.

The Elysian Grove Market today.

Established in the early 1920’s at 400 W Simpson Street, the Elysian Grove Market was one of the early markets in Tucson. After closing in the 1960’s, the market was converted into a private residence and later a bed and breakfast inn. However, the building has retained its original facade and signage, and remains a notable landmark in the area.

Barrio Viejo mural.

Continue on Simpson to the corner of Meyers Avenue and see the colorful “Barrio Viejo” mural celebrating the Barrio’s varied cultural heritage on the side of the building that once housed Lee Ho’s General store (opened in 1912). To the side of the mural, the bronze statue of Aztec Emperor Cuauhtémoc, “Descending Eagle,” honors the Indigenous resistance against the Spanish conquest of Mexico.

The Lost Barrio

The stores of The Old Barrio.

Also not to be missed, nestled in a quiet area south of the University of Arizona, The Lost Barrio is a colorful shopping district, home to 14 locally owned stores. Each with its own distinct character they offer an array of custom and imported furniture, accessories, jewelry, rugs, vintage clothing, and more.

The DeGrazia Gallery

The Mission in the Sun Chapel.

In the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains, the DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun showcases the life and works of local artist Ettore “Ted” DeGrazia. The 10 acre (40,000 square meters) property consists of six adobe buildings set in their natural desert setting. The Mission in the Sun was the first building DeGrazia constructed on the property in 1951. Using his own design, he handcrafted the adobe chapel with the help of friends. He then decorated the interior walls with murals depicting scenes of the life of Padre Eusebio Kino, the Spanish Jesuit missionary who evangelized the area in the late 17th century.

Padre Kino Crosses Colorado at Yuma – Ted Grazia (1961)

Near the Chapel, DeGrazia’s home and the gallery where he displayed his art now house a permanent museum of his works. The remainder of the property, which he completed in 1965, now serves as studios and galleries where local artists can stage temporary exhibits of their creations.

The Land of Saguaro

Saguaros are endemic to the outskirts of Tucson.

Beyond its colorful history and architecture, for me the most compelling feature of Tucson is its ubiquitous saguaros, the country’s largest cacti. Although the giant saguaro (pronounce “suh-waa-row”) has become a popular icon of the American West, it is found only in a very limited area of the Sonoran Desert, in and around Tucson. Saguaros grow slowly, taking about 15 years to reach one foot (30 centimeters), 50 years to reach 7 feet (two meters) and at least 70 years before some begin to take on their typical many-armed appearance, while others remain a soaring column throughout their entire life. Either way, mature saguaros that can reach over 50 feet (15 meters) in height and their lifespan is around 200 years.

Dusk in Sabino Canyon.

More than two millions of them are protected within the two sections of the Saguaro National Park, to the east and west of the city respectively, as well as the Sabino Canyon foothills of the Catalina Mountains to the north. The latter, only a few miles from northern side of Tucson, is my favorite place to commune with these ancient giants. Late afternoon is the best time to visit to ensure the opportunity to admire them silhouetted against the magnificent desert sunset.

Desert Sunset.

Good to Know

Getting there — Tucson is located the southern-most part of Arizona 116 mi (187 km) southeast of Phoenix and 64 mi (103 km) north of the United States–Mexico border by interstate highway. By air — Most travel from international locations will require air connection at a major US international airport to Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport. By road —Tucson is located on Interstate Highway 10 (I 10) the major east–west Interstate Highway in the southern United State.

Getting around — Tucson is very spread out and, thanks to its grid layout, easy to navigate. A car is the best option to explore the various points of interest around the city and surrounding areas.