Hard to imagine that in the historic center of Aix-en-Provence, where even the tiniest of squares is crammed with bistro terraces thick with tourists, cookie-cutter menus and hurried waiters, there still exist an intimate heaven where you can enjoy imaginative cuisine and considerate service in a relaxed atmosphere.
A Seasonal Feast

An intimate heaven of imaginative cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere.
Until I stumble onto La Table des Saisons, an unassuming little hole-in-the-wall on a narrow cobbled lane of the old town, somewhere between the throbbing, cigarette smoke-filled Place des Augustins and the trendy Place des Cardeurs. The jewel-like pastries lined in the refrigerated display case by the open French doors first catch my eye. But before I have a chance to consider skipping dinner and going straight to dessert, the plat de la semaine (weekly special) announced on the blackboard by the door straightens things out. Herb-encrusted filet of cod, served with a zucchini and red-pepper custard, carrot puree and baby string beans? Yes please! My friend, a red meat aficionada, is already sold on the filet of Charolais beef, the most prized cattle meat in France, served en croute, (in puff-pastry, Wellington-style) with shallot and port wine sauce.

Herb-encrusted filet of cod weekly special.
These simple dishes are flawlessly prepared to order and artfully presented with garnishes of spring vegetable. Because of our disparate choices of main courses we order wine by the glass, pleasing local offerings at friendly prices recommended by our knowledgeablel server. I won’t pretend we’ve left room for dessert, but we indulge anyway. My pistachio Bavarois over a “heart” fresh cherries is pure poetry! And a taste of the exquisite lemon cheesecake earns it top billing on my “next time” list.
A Family Affaire

The decor makes room for works by local artists.
La Table des Saison is a chef-owned family affaire. In the open kitchen, Lionel officiates with the enthusiasm and efficiently of a one-man orchestra. In the dining room, Martina welcomes guests with all the attention of a gracious hostess. The atmosphere is warm, the décor unpretentious. Comfortable wicker chairs, tables set with casual linen, soft lighting and art by local artists all around the room (yes, it is for sale in case you happen to fall in love with a particular piece).

Filet of Charolais en croute, with shallot and port wine sauce.

This week’s special is rabbit with tapenade.
But my favorite remains the plat de la semaine available Monday through Friday, a new one offered each week. On my second visit it’s a succulent rabbit leg, in Lionel’s homemade mild tapenade sauce, served with grilled polenta triangles, crunchy string beans, and more of that lovely zucchini and red pepper custard.
Guilty Pleasures

Pistachio Bavarois filled with fresh cherries.
By now, La Table des Saisons is my own guilty pleasure in Aix. I stop for coffee and one of their irresistible pastries in the afternoon whenever I am in the neighborhood. And I manage one more visit on my recent stay there, a late lunch antidote to a particularly hectic morning. It’s Saturday, no plat de la semaine today. No problem though, as I have had my eye on one particular item on the regular menu. For me, it’s Gigot d’agneau de Sisteron today, a pan-grilled steak of delicate milk-fed lamb from the Provencal Alps, just one hour north of here, served with garlic cream sauce and eggplant “caviar”. As I pause by the door to let a young woman pass by, she whispers confidentially: “tout est très bon içi ,” and vanishes without breaking stride. The word is out: everything is delicious here!
Good to Know
- La Table des Saisons, 6 Rue Lieutaud, Aix-en-Provence, France, latabledessaisons.com, is open 12:00 noon to 5:00 pm on Monday, Tuesday and Thursday, 12:00 noon to 10:00 pm on Friday and Saturday, and 12:00 noon to 6:00 pm on Sunday. It is closed on Wednesday. Reservations are prudent on weekend. Contact: e-mail contact@latabledessaisons.com. Tel: +33 (0)4 42 22 97 07.
- The overall menu is seasonal, updated every couple of months to take full advantage of local offerings at their prime.
- Lionel, who originally trained as a pastry chef, creates some of the most tempting desserts ever, showcasing local seasonal fruit. His creations can be enjoyed on site, or purchased to go.
- In addition to featuring vegetarian options on the menu, Lionel is happy to recommend choices and substitutions for gluten-intolerant guests.
Absolutely mouth watering!!! Karen and I can’t wait to dine there with you !! Really great photos of the delicious looking food!
Thank you Jan. Looking forward to it!
I must go. Simply must go. I cannot think of another city in another region anywhere in the world that’s synonymous with relaxed gastronomic luxury as Aix. These are mouth-watering treats. We had a lovely coupon a few years ago to Maison Robert Petit, so I took the kids. Green beans and roast chicken is what they ordered, and it was by far the best they ever had. Made them love green beans. I had…well bourgignon, I believe. That’s our best French restaurant, by a long shot, here. Every time I read your posts I enter into a fabulous mini vacay. Thank you.
Thank you Kathryn – Yes, I remember Maison Robert well. In its days, I thought it to be the first credible French restaurant in Boston!
ah! Bon! I did think it on a par with the more expensive French restaurants in Montreal, and truly excellent. Don’t have much experience with restaurants in France….some…but not enough to compare. In old Montreal many more restaurants have continental service at a reasonable price than here in the U.S.,sd linen tablecloths and continental-style service are reserved in the U.S. more for the very expensive restaurants.
I have experienced that a lot in North America – Continental restaurants where the decor and service is modeled about the great luxury dining establishments of Europe. What patrons are paying for is a traditional Haute Cuisine experience. I have nothing against this special occasion dining, providing that what is in the plate keeps the promise of the elaborate stage setting. But far more interesting to me is the myriad neighborhood restaurants throughout France that dish out “unpretentious, flawlessly prepared dishes at a friendly price” (Chef Bruno Doucet, of La Regalade)
Looks delicious!
Thanks David.
I really need to plan this trip to visit you! Home exchange plan can wait(:=
But I must visit soon! Your description and photos are irresistible. And my favorite –Pistachio Bavarois filled with fresh cherries. I never say no to anything with Pistachio!
Hope the move is just great!
Thank you Ligaya. I know you’ll love the place.